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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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1833. * * PRICE 25 CENTS. * » 1833. 
ILLUSTRATED EDITION 



^S^X^ r A^W*V**W* ^^<y& 




JERUSALEM FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 

This view is said by tradition to be taken from the place where 
our Saviour stood when he wept over the city. 



a. 



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1i\ "^JVIBL F. BE*-' 

!_ 

PRICE 25 CENTS. 



SECOND OR ILLUSTRATED EDITION. 



DANIEL F. BEATTY, Publisher, 

WASHINGTON, WARREN COUNTY, NEW JERSEY, 
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 

I 833. COPYRIGHTED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. \ 833, 



r 






BEATTi'S ORGANS ^ AN g a s i« F w r r. 

Address DANIEL F. liEATTY, Washington, New Jersey. 

BEAITY'S PfANOS r^f G ^aW ^sf 

Address DANIEL F. BEA TT Y, Washington, New Jersey. 
The Largest Factory in the World. 



i 



••Mr. Beatty came from a sturdy stock, and many of his ancestors had 
achieved fame before him in America. His grandfather,. oiie of the p'oneers 
©f his present Beatty family in the United States, came to this country early 
in the last eentui y, and settled Dear Mount Lebanon, fc ew Jersey. He waa 
a I'rotestant and Presbyterian,, one of that hardy Irish-Scotch class of which 
we have prominent illustrations in all parts of America. Bold, persevering 
and 9hrewd, James Beatty was a fine specimen of the breed of men who were 
forced from the intolerance of oppression toseek an asylum in America, and 
of which the Hon. Sanmei Sloan and the late A. T. Stewart are types. Hia 
fattier had preceded him to Mount Lebanon a Jew years and had settled upon 
a homestead which became the birth-place of three generations of the 
family. James died at the age of eighty -eit:ht years, after acquiring consid- 
erable property. He was counted the richest farmer in Hunterdon County, 
owning several large farm-> in the vicinity of Washington. He left six sons 
and two daughters John Beatty, a relative of James, was the father of 
Major-General Beatty, of Stark County, Ohio, who fought with distinction 
under General Scott in the Mexican war, and in the war of the Rebellion rose 
through all the grades from Captain to Major-General. Hon. Georjre H. 
Beatty. the present .-enator from Warren County, N. J., is a cousin ot ex- 
Mayor Daniel P. Beatry. 

"General John Beatty, a brother of James, fought with distinction under 
General Washington in the war of the Kevolution." — Howard, in New 
York Grapnic. 

BEATTY'S ORGANS r&S^to X£ 

Address DANIEL F. BEATTY, Washington, New Jersey 

DCATTV'C DIANflO and organs $ 33 up. Want 

DtAI II O rlAHUo agents. Catalogue Free. 
Address DANIEL F. BE ATTY, Washington, New Jersey. 



O O PREFACE. O O 

In 1878 we published a book (illustrated) of our 

TOUR OF EUROPE, 

embracing Ireland, England, France (Paris exhibi- 
tion, 1878), Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Belgium 
and Scotland. We printed 

TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND COPIES, 

and have hut one copy left, of this great edition. 
Some of the wood cuts are reproduced and used in 
this edition of our Tour of the World. 

35,974 MILES. 

In June, 1889, we again crossed the Atlantic to 
the Paris exhibition of 1889, returning last of 
August. So successful were these two European 
tours that we resolved to make a tour of the world, 
which we have successfully accomplished, travel- 
ing since last June, as below, 35,974 miles. A 
brief sketch of what we saw since last October 
will be found in the following pages. 
Yours very truly, 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, 

WASHINGTON, NEW JERSEY, UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



DISTANCE TRAVELED. 



June 26, 1889. 

N. Y. to Liverpool, - 
Liverpool to London, - 
London to Paris, via Dover, 
Paris to London. 
London to Liverpool, - 
Liverpool to .New York. 



577> 
275 
200 
3.232 



To Washington, N.J., viaBel- 
videre, N. J. - - 100 

Washington, via Bclvidere 
and Tappen to New York, 14Q 

New York to Glasgow. - 3,011 

Glasgow to London, via Edin- 
burgh and Forth Bridge. 469 

London to Sydney and Colom- 
bo via Aden ... 12,500 
. Palestine and Egypt, * - 710 



Blue mountains and interior 

of Australia, - - 500 

Sydney to Auckland, - -1,281 
Auckland to Honolulu, - 3,900 
Honolulu to San Francisco, 2,100 
San Francisco to Ogden, 833 

Ogden to Denver, - - 773 
Denver to Kansas City, - 654 
Kansas City i o Chicago, 488 

Chicago to Phila. via Har- 
pers Ferry, - - 950 
Philadelphia to New York, - 9) 
NewYork to Washington, N.J. 71 

35,974 
Total, Thirty-five thousand, 
nine hundred and seventy-four 
miles. 



MAP OF THE WORLD. 




BEATTYS TOUR OF THE WORLD. 



§N Friday, October 25, 1889, at 4.04 p. m., we 
step upon an express train for the great 
► metropolis of America, New York. Here 
we find, at pier 41, many friends, who have come 
to bid us good-bye and bon voyage and safe return 




YXFTBZLYBNUZ HQIEfc, NEW TOBK. 

to the United States. Saturday, October 26, at 7 
a. m. promptly, the officers of the big steamer cry 
11 all ashore that are going ashore," and we imme- 
diately steam slowly down the New York Harbor 
for a tour around the world. Near Sandy Hook 
is anchored the " Umbria," of the Cunard Line, 
and a French liner bound for Havre. Because it 
is so fogy, they dare not take the risk of going to 
sea for fear of getting grounded, but our pilot 
and captain take the risk, and before the fog lifts 
we are many miles on the great Atlantic, before 
the others are across the "bar." We find old 
mother ocean delightfully smooth, our ship is 
simply magnificent, table and staterooms all that 
one could desire, and officers all so kind and oblig- 
ing. Sunday, October 27. — It is the ambition of a 
lifetime to visit the Holy Land, to see with my 
own eyes the spots made dear by sacred blood, 



where King Solomon's Temple once stood, Mount 
Sinai, . also the great Pyramids of Egypt, the 
River Nile, etc. In a few weeks we shall be in 

Palestine (landing at 
Joppa — Jonah, 1-3 — 
where Jonah embark- 
ed ages ago. "And he 
went down to Joppa." 
Here it was where 
' the Lord had pre- 
| pared a * great fish ' 
' to swallow up Jonah, 
and Jonah was in the 
belly of the fish three 
days and three nights" 
— Jonah, 1-17) and at 
so favorable a time, 

JOPPA, PALESTINE. too> f or the Rey T 

De Witt Talmage, D.D., LL.D., of Brooklyn, 
New York, is expected to arrive there at the 
same time. No one more familiar with the Bible 
history is to be found anywhere. 





fcUB OCEAN STEAMEB'AT SEA, 

Never before have we crossed the Atlantic and 
found it so friendly — no storms and but very little 
sea. The chief officer informs us this morning 



that he never saw the like at this season of the 
year. Now we are nearing the coast of Ireland ; 
we have letters that we promised to write to 
America, so, kind reader, excuse us for a few mo- 
ments, while we write and prepare the following 
cablegram: •" Glasgow, Scotland, Nov. 6, 1889— 
Beatty, Washington, New Jersey, Advertise, 
Cairo, Alert, London." This cablegram code, 
when translated, reads as follows: "Advertise, 
arrived well, pleasant passage, address letters to 
Cairo, Egypt. Alert.— If you wish to communi- 
cate with us by cablegram, do so immediately, 
care New York Herald Office, London, England. 

MOVIIXE, IRELAND. 

It is now 5 p. m., November 5, and for the first 
time since we started a signal is given to the 
engineer to stop. Here we are near Moville, Ire- 
land. It is at this place the " Anchor Line " land 
all their passengers for "Old Ireland, ' via Moville 
and Londonderry. A tender is sent out to meet 
them. This, however, is done before many min- 
utes, and away we go for Greenock, Scotland, 
where we arrive next morning at seven o'clock. 
Here passengers who prefer may take the train 
for Glasgow, but no one does so, excepting the 
purser, as the morning is delightful for sight see- 
ing on the famous river Clyde, one of the most 
beautiful and picturesque rivers in all Europe. 
Here on the banks of the Clyde were built the 
" Umbria," "City of Paris," "City of New York," 
and many other " ocean greyhounds." A gentle- 
man who has resided in Glasgow for the last fifty 
years informs us this morning that never before 
in his life has he seen the Clyde and its shores to 
a "better advantage," so clear is the atmosphere. 
From Greenock all the way to Glasgow we counted 
eighty-seven large steamships being" built ; ^ on 
both sides of the river were passenger trains, 
going to and from Glasgow. It was a magnifi- 



10 



cent sight, never to be forgotten. We have sailed 
up the Hudson for 150 miles, gone down the river 




KISSING THE BLABNEY STONE- 

Rhine nearly 100 miles, but must say that the 
scenery on the Clyde is quite as fine as either. 
At last we arrive at 

GLASGOW, SCOTLAND, 

a city of nearly one million human beings. Our 
luggage being examined by a custom-house offi- 
cer, we engage a carriage for three shillings (cost 
about three dollars in New York), call at the tele- 



II 

graph office, send our cablegrams, post our letters, 
and off to the railroad station for Edinburgh, fifty 
miles away, for there is no need tarrying at Glas- 
gow, as we were here eleven years ago — 187S— 
Glasgow being visited and fully described by us 
then (see Beatty's Tour in Europe). The route 




"VIEW OF GLASGOW." SCOTLAND. 

from Glasgow to Edinburgh is full of interest. 
In the distance is seen the ruins of an old castle 
occupied by Scottish kings centuries ago, and a 
glimpse of the great Forth bridge is pointed out 
to us, and before we are aware the guard shouts 

"EDINBURGH," SCOTLAND. 

It's only a few minutes before we are comforta- 
bly situated at a good hotel just opposite 
SCOTT'S MONUMENT. 

After partaking of a hearty meal we walk to 
the Nelson monument and the old castle. From 
either we get a magnificent bird's-eye view of the 



12 



city. All we have to say is Edinburgh must be 
seen to be fully appreciated. The next morning 





CCOTT'S M0NUMENlL.jeUI^J3UEC^. 



the weather is still fine, and seats are engaged on 
top of a "six-in-hand" tally-ho, for a drive of 
some eighteen miles to the great Forth bridge 
and return. This bridge was begun in 1883, and 
it was said that the last spike was driven the day 
we were there. The weight of the iron and steel 
work is 54,000 tons, while there are 2^0,040 tons 
of solid masonry in the piers; 8,000,000 rivets hold 
this great bridge, which placed end to end would 



reach from Edinburgh to the shores of France, 
and the surface painted will cover an area of 
twenty acres. But it is not our intention to de- 
scribe Scotland in our tour of the world ; it has 
already been mentioned by us in former publica- 
tions. We return to Edinburgh, where we take 
a train for 

MELROSE, SCOTLAND. 

Here we visit the famous old abbey, etc. After 
seeing all of interest here, we step upon an ex- 
press train, soon arriving at Carlisle, for the 
speed of the 

"SCOTT'S EXPRESS" 
is so great, often going at the rate of seventy-five 
miles an hour. To be frank, we are extremely 
glad when the good-natured guard calls out 

"CARLISLE," ENGLAND. 

Here a night is comfortably spent at a good, 
"home-like" hotel. The next morning a visit is 
made to the Cathedral, the. old Castle where 
44 Mary Queen of Scots" was imprisoned, etc. 
Later, taking a train for Leeds, the railway winds 
through a hilly country, crossing many pretty 
ravines and brooks. Arriving at 

LEEDS, ENGLAND, 

a stroll about the city was made, and we were 
very much amused to see an ordinary street car 
pulled by a full-sized locomotive. Well, after 
seeing all worth seeing here, we return to the sta- 
tion, step upon the great 

LONDON EXPRESS 

flying past Sheffield, Nottingham, Leicester, Bed- 
ford, etc., and soon find ourselves in 

LONDON, ENGLAND, 

a city of over 5,000,000 inhabitants, as :he express 
train only made two stops between Leeds and 
London, a distance of over 200 miles, often speed- 
ing through the country at the rate of twelve 
miles in eight and a half minutes ; so we were in- 



14 

formed by an engineer, who knows what he is 
talking; about. Being anxious to hear from home, 




THAMES. LONDON* 

we were driven to the office of the London edition 
of the New York Herald, where we received the 
following cablegram from our manager in 
America, in answer to ours sent from Glasgow: 

"Washington, Warren County, New Jersey, 
November 6, 1889 — Beatty, New York Herald 
office London, 'Emerald.'" This cablegram, 
when translated, reads — " We are well and doing- 
well, and there is no reason why you should re- 
turn." Tired and weary we were driven to a 
hotel, and after a good night's rest arose refreshed 
just in time to see 

THE LORD MAYOR'S SHOW. 

The Lord Mayor's show is one of the great 
sights of London, and the London papers de- 
scribe this year's as the best ever given. This 
great show occurs once a year and has been given 
for centuries. The next day being Sunday, of 
course we help make an audience of over 6,000 to 
hear the world renowned. 

REV. C. H. SPURGEON 

just before he left for his annual trip to the South 
of France, for his health, as the great divine can- 



*5 

not stand the celebrated London fogs. Monday, 
November n, 1889, is fine for foggy London, so 
we hasten to the office of the "Peninsular and 
Oriental Steam Navigation Company," to arrange 
our passage East., for by this company's steamers 
we are to travel 12,500 miles, having arranged for 
first-class state rooms on three of their great 
ocean greyhounds, for we are to break our jour- 
ney three times en route. Of course we cannot 
think of winding up the day till we have visited 

BARNUM'S AT OLYMPIA. 

It was his first performance in Europe, the 
15,000 seats were quite full, show good, especially 
Kiralfy's Fall of Rome. Barnum was there, too. 
The steamer we had intended taking was full, so 




MIDLAND GEAND HOTEL, LONDON. 

we were obliged to wait two weeks for another ; 
but in London, the modern Babylon, time flies. A 
ride on the "underground" to Whitechapel to 
see the spot where "Jack the Ripper" is kept 
busy butchering human beings without being 
found out. Thence to St. Paul's Cathedral, which 
was forty years in building ; height to top of dome, 
404 feet. Entering, one sees monuments to the 
"great," beautiful dome, big organ, etc. Way 



i6 

down in the crypt is the Duke of Wellington's fun- 
eral car, cost $65,000. Now out around St. Paul's 
churchyard ne^r by, Lord Mayor's office, Royal 
Stock Exchange, on top of an omnibus down 
Ludgate Hill, through the Strand, passing the 
Court of Chancery to Trafalgar Square. Here is 
Nelson's column flanked by huge lions; beyond, 
to our right, the National Picture Gallery, through 
Pall Mall (side trip here to Regent and Bond 
streets), pass St. James' Palace, the Prince of 
Wales' residence, fronting on St. James' Park ; be- 
yond " Her Majesty, the Queen's Palace." Over 
the park we go to Westminster Abbey, the most 
interesting edifice in the Kingdom; so much to 
see here, monuments to kings and queens, in- 
scriptions to great men and women, etc., makes 
one weary ; cross the road to the House of Parlia- 
ment, where we enter, for we know some of the 
members. Coming out set our watch by "Big 
Ben/' the great clock in the tower, 345 feet high. 
On the Westminster Bridge we get a good view 
of water front of the " House." Now take my 
arm, reader, and let us stroll up High Holborn 
through Oxford street to Marble Arch, cost 
$400,000, through which we enter Hyde Park, 388 
acres, cross Rotten Row, pass the Serpentine, 
enter Kensington Gardens to Albert Memorial, 
cost $700,000; opposite is Albert Hall, cost $1,000,- 
000, holds 9,000 people ; the organ has five rows of 
keys, 130 stops and io,ooq pipes; orchestra accom- 
modates 1,000 performers. Now, let's go by rail 
to "Tower of London," whose origin is lost in 
the mist of antiquity, see the $2,500,000 crown 
jewels; cross the London Bridge, by hansom to 
Regent's Park of 472 acres, to see the finest col- 
lection of wild animals in the world; "Madam's" 
wax works, British Museum ; . then take night train 
for Crystal Palace, cost $7,500,000 (the Handel 
Orchestra seats 5,000 persons), and see the great- 
est display of fireworks in the world. On we go 
to Windsor Castle and see her most gracious 



17 

Majesty the Queen of England, and by pleasure 
steamer on the River Thames to Hampton Court, 
Richmond, Barnes Bridge and Common, to Kew 
Gardens; now an ear 1 y morning ramble to the 
great markets of London, to see how much it 
really takes to feed London, and you know the 
two weeks have gone so quick, haven't they? Ten 
a. m., on November 28, 1889, we are in the great 
London (Liverpool street) Railway Station. Yon- 
der is backing up a special train. " Where is that 
train going?" "Going!" exclaimed the guard, 
4 ' that is the special train that is to convey you to 
vour steamer, the 



KOHILLA OF THE P. & O. 

Who is singing in the waiting room? Why, it's 
a lot of missionaries bound for China and Japan. 
While they are bidding friends a long farewell, 
perhaps forever, they do so with song, ending 
with " Praise God from whom all blessings flow r ." 
There stands the famous Bradlaugh, a member of 
Parliament, for India; by his side is Postmaster- 
General O'Brien, of Singapore ; there, too, is Mr. 
Legh, another Member of Parliament, and his 
charming wife, for sunny Egypt. Yonder, just 
getting into the train, are the Countess of Strath- 
more and her two daughters, the Ladies Lyon ; 
near by Mr. Jessup and his man servant, of Phila- 
delphia, Pa. ; a good-natured captain and Dr. 
Rathbon, an American dentist, going to Gibraltar; 
an ex-mayor from the United States, member of 
the Chinese embassy and native servant, and 
hundreds of others bound for all parts of the 
world. Listen — click— the guard has locked us 
in our compartment, and away w r e go, through 
the city of London to the Royal Albert Docks. 
Thursday, November 28, at 2 p.m., they cry "all 
ashore that are going ashore," and amid the wav- 
ing of handkerchiefs, hats, etc., we soon begin to 
steam slowly out of the ** 



i8 



ROYAL, ALBERT DOCKS 

into the river Thames. Hark! there is a band of 
miidc serenading us as we leave the dock, for on 
all the P. & 0. Australian boats a band of music 
goes all the way, 12,500 miles. We are now in 
the world-renowned river Thames. Leaving 
Gravesend, the great ocean greyhound begins to 
thread her way westward through the intricate 
channels that extend from the mouth of the river 
Thames towards the borders or coasts of Belgium 
and France on one side and "Merry Old Eng- 
land" on the other, to the Straits of Dover, where 




"WAGON ROAD OF NAPOLEON., 

she enters ine broader waters of the famous Eng- 
lish Channel. On either side are millions of 
human beings, each country speaking a different 
language, simply separated by these waters. As 
we steam onward, the Channel presents a con- 
stant, moving panorama of steamers, moving in- 
ward and outward, bound to and from all nations 
of the earth. What a magnificent sight; Now 
comes Southend, the great "Nore Lighthouse," 
mouth of River Medway, etc. Finally, after a run 
of seventy-two miles, the heights, castle and 
town of Dover is sighted. On we go, passing 



19 

Beachy Head, Brighton, the Long Branch of Eng- 
land, on our right, and on our left Calais, and 
further on Havre, France. Soon the famous Isle 
of Wight is sighted, the summer residence of 
Her Gracious Majesty, the Queen of England. 
Here we stop to let off the Cnannel pilot. Now, 
leaving the English coast and Plymouth to our 
right, the steamer passes St. Catherine's Point, 
France, 197 miles from London. Soon we reach 
the 

BAY OF BISCAY, 
a body of water, it is said, that has no bottom, 
whose waters, sailors claim, go through the earth 
into the Pacific — how true this is we are unable to 
say. After passing safely over the Bay without 
going through, the first land we see is Cape Finis- 
terre. All along is seen now and then a peep of 
the coasts of France, Spain and Portugal, as we 




LTHE CHAMPS ELYSEE8. PARIS.' 

steam southward. With our field glasses we can 
see a bit of Virgo, Oporto and Lisbon. At Lisbon 
to-day, December 2d, the late Emperor of Brazil 
arrived via Cape St. Vincent; after rounding this 
famous old Cape with her historical recollection , 
the good ship enters the Bay of Cadiz, and pass- 
ing Cape Trafalgar and the Pillar of Hercules, 
one in Spain, the other Africa, we soon arrive at 



20 
GIBRALTAR, SPAIN, 

1,358 miles (by the route taken by our captain) 
from London. On the arrival in the Bay the fol- 
lowing telegram was read: 

"London, December 2, 1889. — The late Em- 
peror of Brazil, with his family, arrived at Cape 
St, Vincent in good health and proceeded to Lis- 
bon. Mysterious epidemic has appeared in St. 
Petersburg (Grip). $15,000,000 worth of property 
destroyed in Lynn, Mass." Now some one says 
there was a great fire in Boston, too. I wonder 
what has gotten the matter with America, Land- 
ing at Gibraltar I was very much amused to see 
men in the principal streets milking goats, and a 
big boy driving a wee bit of donkey to market. 





hi%^ " ! - 



GIBRALTAR, SPAIN. 

We paid a visit to the Governor's residence, the 
old Castle, Cathedral, looked at Gibraltar's mighty 
guns, and her strong fortifications, taking a stroll 
through the beautiful garden, etc., of this famous 
old town of some 20,000 inhabitants. Directly 



21 

opposite is Algeciras, where the Spanish have 
their bull fights. Looking south we see Morocco, 
Africa. The transformation scene from Spain to 
Africa is great, people are so different in looks 
and manners ; while one race live in Europe, the 
other in Africa. Can it be possible ? is this Africa, 
the " dark continent " where Gordon, Emin Pasha, 
Stanley and others have explored ? how many 
have gone there never to return ! We will never 
forget our first sight of Africa, the impression 
made upon us is lasting. Leaving Gibraltar, to 
our right still is Morocco, Africa, whose sultan's 
yearly revenue is $2,500,000, for his authority is 
supreme in spiritual and temporal matters. 

To our left is seen Spain, with her millions of 
human beings, back of us the high rocks of Gib- 
raltar towering towards the heavens; here and 
there is seen a mighty gun peeping at us as we 
enter the 

MEDITERRANEAN SEA, 

which is described as a " tideless sea." At Gib- 
raltar the currents have been very carefully ex- 
amined, and it is found that in the middle of the 
straits there is always an easterly current running 







iKBA AND THE LEANING TOWEB, 

in from the Atlantic at the tremendous rate of four 
to five knots an hour. The Nile and other rivers 



22 

flow into it, but we are told it has no outlet. Does 
the water evaporate, or has it some unknown sub- 
terranean outlet? Who knows? Perhaps Vesu- 
vius, Stromboli, or Mt. Etna could tell us; they 
may require this vast body of water to cool them. 
The great Sierra Nevada mountains having been 
passed by moonlight, we suddenly plunge as it 
were in the 

GULF OF LYONS. 
" The nastiest sheet of water on the globe." A 
fellow passenger who has traveled around the 
world three times, says this gulf has eight different 
currents. If he had said eighty we would have 
believed him, it was so bad, and to make it still 
more depressing, we had a 

BURIAL, AT SEA. 

The ship is stopped, a short service is read ; the 
body, wrapped in a white winding sheet, is slowly 
lowered on a plank down the outside of the ship. 
A gentle pull at the head and the body slips into 
the deep blue sea and disappears at once, as it is 




VIEW OF BOMB. 



leaded or weighted at the feet. The signal is 
given and the ship moves on, leaving the fate of 
the departed to the sharks. It is quick and Dot 
expensive. Now we are passing near the coast 
of Sardinia on our journey of the world. Decern- 



23 

ber 7th, at 8 a. m., finds us only 150 miles from 
Naples. The sky is clear as crystal and blue as 
indigo ; the atmosphere is perfect, for it is one of 
the Mediterranean mornings that we have read 
about. Yonder is Mt. Etna, and the Captain says 
it is nearly 100 miles away; we can scarcely 
believe him. 

ISCHIA, ITALY, 
is now passed, where only a few years ago an 
earthquake occurred, and 1,500 persons perished 
in " a twinkling of an eye." See, over there is 
the Castle of Elmo. Now we see Puteoli or 
Pozznoli ; the place where St. Paul landed on his 
way to Rome. Acts xxviii., 13, " came the next 
day to Puteoli;" and as we are steaming up the 

BAY OF NAPLES 

Mt. Vesuvius is seen pouring forth hot lava and 
smoke. On either side the shore is dotted by resi- 
dences and beautiful Italian scenery. Having 
visited Naples, the largest population 463,172, 




■POMPEII AHD MOUNT VESUVIUS. *■ 

Rome, the capital, Florence, Venice, city of boats, 
Milan, Turin, Genoa, Columbus' birthplace, Pisa 
and leaning tower, etc., in 1878. Anchoring in 



24 

the Bay of Naples reminds us of former days. At 
Naples we find the same hotel, same familiar 
faces, and the Italian hackmen. Having already 
climbed to the top of Vesuvius, gone over the ruins 
of Pompeii, no need of our tarrying. At 11:30 
p. m., the great anchor is lifted, away we go, and 
soon find ourselves again on the sea. The follow- 
ing day is Sunday; of course the captain reads 
the service of the 

CHURCH OF ENGLAND. 

On our return on deck we get a fine 

VIEW OF STROMBOLI. 

We are passing close to this volcanic mountain, 
it is always burning. The town of Stromboli — 
7,000 inhabitants — lies close at her feet; ''seems 
very risky." Now passing through the Straits 
of Messina, 10 our right is Sicily with Mt. Etna 
10,900 feet above the level of the sea, smoking. 
To the left is the coast of Italy; either side is 
dotted with villages, beautiful viaducts, trains of 
cars, forests of olive trees. The hill country in 
the distance looks volcanic, and beyond the great 
mountains are seen covered with snow. Onward 
we go, and it is not long before we see 

CANDIA OR CRETE, 

some of whose mountains are 8, 100 feet high. Here 
it was St. Paul sailed "close by" a prisoner on 
his way to Rome. Acts xxvii., 13: "They sailed 
close by Crete." . Way beyond to our left is Athens, 
Greece ; to our right 

MALTA OR MELITA, 

where St. Paul was shipwrecked. Acts xxviii. 
1, "and when they were escaped, then they 
knew that the island was called Melita," In 
Malta one can -buy the finest laces to be had 
in the world. We were shown lace handkerchiefs 
for 75 cents that sell in New York for $7 each. 
What a sudden change ! Yesterday it was cold, 
overcoats and warm wraps were in gre^t demand; 



25 

to-day they are " not wanted." In the saloon the 
stewards are busy putting up the punkahs, huge 
fans just over our heads above the tables, and 
little native Indian boys are to keep them in 
motion while we dine. If one wants summer in 
December, let him sail towards the coast of Africa. 
Captain Maurice de Home, of the P. & O. steamer 




ST. ELMO, MALTA, BY MOONLIGHT. 
( Near here tradition says St. Paul was shipwrecked.) 

"Rohilla," informs us this morning, December 9, 
1889, that the measurements of the sea as found 
in sacred Scriptures, Acts xxvii. 28, are correct: 
" and sounded and found it twenty fathoms, and 
when they had gone a little further, they sounded 
again and found it fifteen fathoms." Well, Alex- 
andria, Egypt, is passed and we are near 

DAMIETTA, 

often fought over by the Crusaders. Here, too, 
we see one of the mouths of the river Nile and 
the great light-house towering toward the blue 
Mediterranean sky. 



26 

" Only two hours more," and Port Said is 
sighted, 3,579 miles from London. As we ap- 
proach to our left the coast of Asia to our right 
Africa, two great continents ; we enter at once the 
Suez Canal, the great break-water walls extend- 
ing far out into the sea. Soon the steamer is 
anchored in the Canal off Port Said, where she 
begins coaling, requiring 700 tons, while around 
the ship are hundreds of small boats filled with 
Arabs eagerly waiting to take us ashore, so much 
so that we are obliged to exclaim "yalla," "em 



PORT SAID, EGYPT, AFRICA. 

she," "go away," "clear out." Well, we finally 
went ashore, and, after passing the custom house, 
were soon very comfortably lodged at a good 
French hotel. 

PORT SAID, EGYPT, 
is in Africa, and is only separated from Asia by 
the Suez Canal. It is said to be the greatest coal- 
ing station in the world, 1,000,000 tons being sup- 
plied annually to passing steamers, Here one 



sees representatives of all nations of the earth. 
Rain falls in Egypt once in every three or four 
years, and it is a sandy desert excepting where 
the inundation of the Nile renders the country 
fertile. Port Said has no railroad, yet it is a town 
of 20,000. Approaching it from the sea, one is 
reminded of Long Branch, especially the frame 
houses. The natives, Arabs and Egyptians of 
the lower class, have been known to live on only 
a penny a day. Walking along the shore of 
Africa, we collected some rare shells; strolling 
through the streets we saw some very funny and 
amusing sights. Here we saw more professional 
beggars than anywhere else; "em she" was a 
good word to use to get rid of them. We are 
compelled to stop off at Port Said, for here we 
are to take a steamer for Jaffa, Palestine, for the 

HOLY LAND. 




JERUSALEM, VIEW FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 

(Said to be taken from the place where Our Saviour stood 
when he wept over the city.) 



Saturday, December 14, at 9 p. m., we embark on 
the steamer "Gironde," a French boat that arrived 
from Alexandria, "one of the finest steamers 



28 • 

touching at Jaffa," arriving at Jaffa (no miles from 
Port Said) early next morning ; but we were una- 
ble to land, as the sea was exceedingly rough, and 
for five long, weary hours we laid anchored where 
Jonah embarked ages ago, and we pitched about 
at such a great rate, expecting every moment the 
Captain would give orders to proceed on to Bey- 
rout. Looking toward the shore we could see the 
breakers often rising thirty feet. We had almost 
despaired of landing, when a fellow passenger ex- 
claimed: "Look, see that boat; can it be possible 
they dare venture out in such a sea?" Well, 
these Jaffa boatmen are descendants of the Phoe- 
nicians, and it is said are the finest oarsmen in the 
world. If a boat is swamped each man will save 
a passenger, so if there are not more passengers 
than oarsmen you are perfectly safe. See, the 
boat is coming closer and closer, tossing about 
like a feather ; it's floating the Turkish flag ; it is 
the boat? for the mail. The mail bags are thrown 
on board ; presently the sea becomes a little more 
calm and a few passengers are thrown on board. 
Two strong men hold you over the rails of the ship, 
and as the mail boat comes up on a big wave, they 
" let go " while others grab you as you drop into 
the boat below, which an instant later has dropped 
below our steamer at least ten feet. Well, we 
were thrown in, too, and were landed "dry shod," 
but the boys demanded "bakshish," and they 
really deserved, it as they were brave men, and 
they got it. Now winding the steep streets of Jaffa 
for a little way we were soon in carriages and 
conveyed to a hotel, where we met Rev. T. 
De Witt Talmage's party, of Brooklyn, New York; 
on the hotel register the great divine had written : 
"Last night we made our exodus from Egypt, 
and this morning we entered * Promised Land. ' 
May our entrance to the Heavenly Canaan be as 
peaceful a disembarkation. We crossed the sea 
dry shod," Well, we crossed "dry shod " too, 



2 9 

JOPPA, PALESTINE. 

Palestine is 140 miles long, by fifty to seventy 
broad; it's a hilly country. Joppa (now Jaffa), in 
Dan, is the port of Jerusalem and is certainly a 




VIEWS IN PALESTINE. 



(Nazareth, Mosque of Omar, Lake of Gallilee and Jews' 

Wailing Pface.) 
queer looking old town. Here is the house of 
• ' Simon the Tanner." Acts ix., 43. Here Jonah 
embarked ages ago and was swallowed by a great 
fish ; here, too, were the prettiest orange groves 
we had ever seen. But the people dress and look so 
strange, we did not know what to make of them. 
Of course we could address them " naharaside," 
"good morning, may your day be blessed," 
etc., and that's about all. Everywhere may be 
seen camels carrying their heavy burdens, fre- 
quently obstructing the highway. The natives 
still dress as they did in the time of " Abraham, 
Isaac and Jacob." We frequently see an old man 
in flowing robes, with long, white beard, who 
might be easily taken for one of the prophets. 
Desirous of getting to Jerusalem as soon as 



3° 



possible we engage six horses, two landaus, two 
coachmen and the well known dragoman, Mr. 
Rolla Floyd, who conducted the late General U. 
S. Grant, "Sunset" Cox, and many other dis- 
tinguished Americans through Palestine, and at 
2.30 p.m. are off for the Holy City (since we were 
there a rail road has been completed to Jerusalem). 
Now we -are passing the spot where Peter raised 
Tabitha, as recorded in Acts ix., 36, " Now there 
was at Joppa." At 3 p. m. we drive upon the 
plain of Sharon (see Solomon's songs, second 
chapter. Soon we are beside the tomb marking 
the ground as recorded by Joshua xix. , 3, •' Hazer- 
Shual." "Well, I suppose you have heard of 
Sampson," said Mr. Floyd; "there is where he 
caught 300 foxes," as he pointed to an open field 
to our left. Judges xv., 4, "Sampson went and 
caught 300 foxes," On either side of the road on 
the plain of Sharon the natives are seen busy 
plowing in December. Tired and weary from the 
excitement of landing at Jaffa, etc., we are com- 
pelled to stop over night at 

RAMLEH, ARIMATHAEA. 

Ramleh is supposed«to have oeen the home of 
Joseph, who loaned 
his tomb for the burial 
of Christ. St. Luke 
xxiii, 50, 51. "All 
ready," cried Mr. 
Floyd, at 8 a. m. next 
I morning, and we are 
on our way. Now, 
Gimzo is pointed out 
to us, II. Chronicles 
xxviii., 18., "ThePhi- 
lestines . . . and 
the south of Judea 
. . . Gimzo also; 
and the villages there- 
of." It is a beautiful, 
clear morning ; little birds alight on the ' ' only one" 




TOWER OF THE CRUSADERS, 
RAMLEH. 



31 

telegraph wire leading to Jerusalem, peeping at 
us, much as to say, "See, they are Americans." 
Over a little hill we go, and the town of Gezer is 
sighted, I. Kings ix., 16, 17, the town " Pharoah, 
King of Egypt, captured and given it for a present 
unto his daughter, who was one of Solomon's 
w^ves." " Please look over there on the top of 
that high mountain. Do you see that little notch 
or pass? Well," said Mr. Floyd. "That is the 

PASS OF BETH-HORON. 

There is where Joshua stood w r hen he com- 
manded the sun and moon to stand still. Joshua 
x. 12, "Sun stand thou still upon Gibeon, and 
thou moon in the valley of Ajalon." And we are 
told that the sun and moon obeyed, "for with 
God nothing shall be impossible," Luke i., 37. 
Looking toward this mountain from the valley of 
Ajalon reminds one of the Blue Mountains in 
America. Now, descending a little hill, the road 
winds more crookedly than the "Horse Shoe 
Bend" of Pennsylvania, but our horses are 
"quite used to it." On we go and Barree is 
sighted, a modern mud village, celebrated for its 
fleas. Soon we have reached 

LATROME, 

being half way from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Here, 
tradition says, w-as the home of the penitent thief 
who was crucified with Christ. " Lord, remem- 
ber me when thou comest into thy Kingdom," St. 
Luke xxiii., 42. And strange to say the village 
unto this day is wholly inhabited by thieves. As 
we leave this town and are climbing the hills of 
Palestine shepherd boys are seen guarding their 
flocks, for in this country there are no fences. 
Arriving at Bal-elwad, we take lunch and have 
our horses fed, surrounded by the hills of Judea. 
As we leave the little stone hotel we find the hills 
barren, excepting now and then a grove of olive 
trees. "Look yonder, please, on top of that 
large hill ; that is 



32 

KlRJATH-JEARIM, 

where the Ark of the Lord rested twenty years " 
I. Samuel vii., 1-2, "And it came to pass while 
the ark abode in Kirjath-jearim, that the time was 
long, for it was twenty years." 




VIEWS IN PALESTINE. 

Leaving the hills of Judea for a little while we 
now enter the lands of the 

^ TRIBE OF BENJAMIN, 

passing Abugosh, a modern village, at 1.10 p. m. 
Here we see the ruins of an old Roman church, built 
over 1,800 years ago. Way beyond to our left is 



33 

MIZPAH, 

Here tradition says Saul was chosen King of Israel. 
I. Samuel, x., 24," And Samuel said to all the peo- 
ple, "See ye him whom the Lord hath 
chosen." Descending another hill (for this coun- 
try is very hilly), the road makes many sharp 
turns, winding around like a snake. To our left, 
iradition says, is the birthplace of 

JOHN, THE BAPTIST. 

St. Luke i,, 39, "And went into the hill country." 
Here the late General Gordon resided a year. To 
our left is 

EMMAUS, • 

where Jesus appeared to two of his disciples after 
he had arisen from the dead. Luke, xxiii., 13. 
"And behold two of them went that same day to 
a village called Emmaus." Soon we are in the 

VALLEY OE ELAH, 

where the "Philistines gathered together their 
armies to battle. ' Here is where David killed 
Goliath that the stone sunk into his forehead.' " I. 
Samuel xvii. , 49. Here in the Valley of Elah we 
make another stop, for our horses are weary, 
warm and hungry. While the poor things are 
feeding we get a fine view of Emmaus. Hundreds 
of Camels are seen passing on their way from 
Jerusalem; by the way, the carriage road from 
Jaffa to Jerusalem and Bethlehem we found ex- 
cellent ; one need not stay away from Jerusalem 
and Bethlehem on this account ; we wish we had 
as good roads in New Jersey. As we leave the 
valley, and are ascending another hill, the sights 
as recorded in I. Samuelxxv., 1-2, Isaiah vii., 3, also 
in Judges xx., 19, are sighted. In fact, all the 
country now is full of Bible history, for we are near 
Jerusalem, and just over there to our left is the 

CONVENT OF THE CROSS, 
said to be built on the spot where the tree grew 
that the Cross was made from. Nearly seventy- 
five miles away is seen Mt. Moab, near which were 
the cities of 



&OI>OM AND GOMORRAH, 

"And Lot dwelt in the mountain," Gen. xix., 
30. Somewhere near this mountain, tradition says, 
was the Garden of Eden. " So God created man 
in His own image and put him in the Garden of 
Eden," first and second chapters. 




VIEWS IN PALESTINE. 



" Look here to your right," cried our excellent 
guide, "do you see that wall yonder ? it is the old 
wall of Jerusalem," and sure enough, before one 
is aware he is upon 



35 

TITE HOLY CITY, 

so suddenly did you come upon Jerusalem, enter- 
ing; it as we did from Jaffa. We were soon m 
front of the Jaffa Gate, and all were politely 




asked to " please get out of your carriage," for no 
carriages are allowed within the walls of Jemsa- 



3 6 

lem, so narrow are her streets. We alighted, of 
course, and are soon very comfortably situated at 
a good hotel, built on 

MT. ZION, 

directly opposite King David's tower or palace. 
Immediately we order our Jerusalem guide, assis- 
ted by Mr. Floyd, to hire for us donkeys, as we 
want to go to the Mt. of Olives to get a bird's-eye 
view of Jerusalem and the surrounding country 
before sunset. No sooner said than done, for 
" here come your donkey, all ready," and away 
we go through the Jaffa Gate, not through the 
"eye of the needle," which is a very small gate 
within the large gate ; turning to our right near 
the walls of the city, passing near by cave where 
tradition says Jeremiah wrote his lamentations. 
To the right, near the Damascus Gate, is where 
the stones were taken into a grotto and prepared 
for the Temple, so that there was neither hammer 
nor axe nor any tool of iron heard in the house 
while it was in building. I. King vi,, 7.^ Here we 
go down into a little valley and again ascend a lit- 
tle hill,-? passing to our left General Gordon's site 
of Calvary; now descending another hill bearing 
to our right we get a splendid view of the 

VALLEY OF JEHOSAPHAT. 

Further on, near the Golden Gate, we are 
shown the spot where St. Stephen was stoned, 
and Paul, before he was converted, stood looking 
on. Acts xx. 22. " I was also standing by." Down, 
down the valley our little donkeys take us without 
a murmur, as there is no carriage road to the 
Mount of Olives. On our right is now the Gar- 
den of Gethsemane; to our left, over the brook 
Kedron, are the tombs of the Virgin, St. Anne, 
St. Joseph and St. Joachim. All lie buried in the 
"Church of the Tomb of the Virgin." Now 
ascending the Mount of Olives, alongside of the 

GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE, 

that sacred spot. St. Matthew, xxvi., 36, "A 



place called Gethsemane." Higher, higher up 
the Mount we go for nearly a mile, till we are at 
the very top of the 

MOUNT OF OLIVES, 

and we are amply repaid, for here the sight was 

SIMPLY MAGNIFICENT. 

as far as the eye could reach. In front of us is 




MOUNT OF OLIVES. 
(View from near the Garden of Gethsemane.) 

the great yellowish-looking plain of Jordan, and 
we could see the river Jordan flowing into the 

DEAD SEA, 

which was visible for at least thirty miles, being 
some 3,000 feet below the level of Jerusalem. It 
was a large sheet of water of a very dark blue, 
but where the Jordan flows into it it was a much 
lighter blue. In sixty miles, as the crow flies, the 
Jordan's actual course measures 200 miles. 
Further on Mt. Moab, towering toward the heav- 
ens ; a little to our right is Bethany ; near is the 
"mountain" where Jesus was tempted by the 
devil, St.*" Matthew iv., 8. Further around is Beth- 
lehem, Jesus' birthplace; still, directly under the 
setting sun, is a splendid bird's-eye view of Jerusa- 
lem, lying like a map before us ; beyond, the Hills 



3S 




of Judea. No pen can describe the scenes. It 
was a view of the Holy Land that made the sights 
so interesting; the sky is cloudless and the sun is 
sinking in yonder wes- 
tern horizon, as it had 
done thousands of 
years ago, while our 
Jerusalem guide is 
, pointing out the many 
I Bible sites, where Jesus 
I ascended to Heaven, 
where He taught the 
disciples " Our Father 
who art in Heaven," 
where He stood when 
He wept over Jerusa- 
lem. St. Luke xix. , _i. 

RIVER JORDAN. „ ^ when He £ d 

come near He beheld the city and wept over it." 
Further on, just beyond the Golden Gates, is where 
King Solomon's Temple once stood, but it has 
disappeared, vanished like the early dew. St. 
Matthew xxiv. , 2, "There shall not be left here 
one stone upon another." Well, it's getting late 
and we descend the 
Mount, crossing the new 
carriage road to Jericho 
and Damascus. Now 
we are again in the Val- 
ley of Jehoshaphat; here j 
we pause to see the mon- 
ument Absalom had 
erected to himself 3,000 
years ago, part of the 
monument being hewn 
out of the solid rock. 
Passing the fountain of 
the Virgin, the village 
and pool of Siloam (St. John ix., 7) here a halt is 
made at the pool, to see hundreds of human beings, 
camels, horses and donkeys, who have come for a 




TOMB OF ABSALOM. 



39 

cooling drink, etc. On the left of the pool, opposite 
Jerusalem, on a side hill, is where Solomon kept his 
700 wives and 300 concubines. I. Kings xi., 3: "And 
he had seven hundred wives, princesses, and three 
hundred concubines. " This was a great many, 
and the Holy Bible informs us that "his wives 
turned away his heart." In front of us is the 
valley of Hinnon, now the "field of blood," 
and the place where Judas hung himself 
is sighted, St. Matthew xxvii., 5-8. Ascending 
Mt. Zion, near the pool of Solomon beside David's 
throne (near where we saw a group of Lepers) we, 
enter again the Holy City through the Jaffa Gate 
just in time to dine with the American Consul. 
We were so pleased with our trip to the Mount 
that we resolved to go again the next morning. 
Tuesday December 17, was a beautiful, clear 
morning, and an early tour was made to Calvary. 
Ascending to the roof of our hotel on Mt. Zion we 
were well repaid, for here we got another bird's-eye 
view ^f the city; some one shouts, "Your donkeys 
are outside waiting ; come along, we must be going 
before the sun is so hot." Again we are on our 
way to the Mount, stopping in the Valley of 
Jehosaphat to visit all the tombs in the "Church 
of the Virgin. Now entering the real 

GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE, 

near by the brook Kedron, the keeper in charge 
plucked from the garden olive leaves and ever- 
lasting flowers for u: to take to America. We 
were standing on sacred ground. St. Markxiv., 
34, " My soul is exceedingly sorrowful." No one 
speaks in the Garden scarcely above a whisper. 
With bowed, uncovered heads we departed, and 
soon again were ascending the mount. We are 
now standing on the rock that tradition says Jesus 
ascended to Heaven from. Again we go to the 
church of the Lord's Prayer. Here we see the 
prayer printed in thirty-four different languages ; 
returning to Jerusalem via the Pool of Siloam, 
King David's Throne. &c,, as before. At 1.30 



4o 



p. m. we took carriage for Bethlehem, going by 
the Pool of Solomon, near by where Solomon was 
anointed King of Israel (I. Kings i., 38-39), over 
the plain of Gihon, and soon are in the 

VALLEY OF REPHAIM, 

as mentioned in II. Samuel v., 18. Near here, 
tradition informs ns, is where the "wise men" 
stopped on their way to Bethlehem, and " saw 
His star" (St. Mathew ii., 2), that guided them to 
where the Child was born. Near here we were 
shown the stone that tradition says Elijah slept on 
under a juniper tree (I. Kings xix., 5). Here we 
get a fine view of Bethlehem and the surrounding 
hill country. Now a shepherd's boy is seen watch- 
ing his flock. Luke ii., 8, "Shepherds abiding 
in the fields." Tradition says these fields are also 
where Ruth gleaned (Ruth ii., 1-2). Stop, please, 
this is the 







TOMB OF RACHEI., 



41 




WAGON ROAD TO BETHLEHEM. 

A little stone mosque has been built over the 
grave, as recorded in Gen. xxxv., 16-20. Beyond 
is the town of Zelah, where Saul and Jonathan, 
his son, are buried (II. Samuel xxi., 14). Here 
along this road Abraham must have traveled on 
his way from Berthel to Hebron (Gen., 13 chap.). 
BETHLEHEM. * 

Now entering the environs of Bethlehem (Mich, 
v. , 2), we see a beautiful grove of olive trees, the 
finest in all Palestine ; no wonder, for we were near 
where Immanuel (Isaiah vii., 14) was born, in the 
land of Judea, for Bethlehem is built on one of the. 



42 




VIEW IN BETHLEHEM. 



hills of Judea. Soon 
we are driving through 
the streets. On either 
side are substantial 
stone buildings. Now 
we are entering a little 
tunnel built just under 
a residence ; the streets 
are very narrow here, 
and will admit of but 
one carriage. Out in- 
to an open market or 
bazaar we go, and 
find we are in front 
of the 

"CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY." 

Entering, we were furnished with light and began 
our descent among the rocks and grottoes into 
the stables. St. Lukeii., 7, "and laid Him in a 
manger." In Palestine it is the custom to build 
the stables under the dwellings now the same as 
in the time of Christ— 4 ' and Joseph went into the 
stable, because there was no room for them in the 
inn." Soon we were standing near bv where 
"She brought forth 

her first born son." 

M e n and women 

stood around, many 

reverently bowing 

low and kissing the 

manger, others are 

seen even removing 

their shoes. Not a 

word is uttered ; it is 

an impressive scene. 

11 Fear not; for, be- 
hold, I bring you 

good tidings of great 

joy, which shall be to PLACE where jesus was born. 

all people" (St. Luke ( So sa ^ s tradition). 




43 

ii. , 10). " To all people " this is a glorious promise 
from " the angel of the Lord" (Luke ii., 9). Over 
the outside or top of the stables is the high altar 
of the Greek Patriarch, built directly over the 
manger, and where the inn once stood. Near 
here we enter another large corridor where we 
saw forty-four large alabaster pillars, brought here 
from the ruins of King Solomon's Temple. From 
here we visit the traditional grotto where the 
Virgin hid the young child from Herod, and after- 
ward obeyed the great command: "Arise, take 
the young child and His mother and flee into 
Egypt" (St. Mathew ii. , 13). Now, returning the 
sheik of the Bedouins with his escort gave us a 
treat to a sham battle on the plain of Rephaim on 
thoroughbred Arabian horses. They displayed 
wonderful horsemanship and great skill with their 
swords. Our dragoman (Mr. Floyd) joined them 
and rode quite as well. The sun was sinking as 
we entered Jerusalem. 
^ Wednesday, December 18, again we visit 

THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 

Now we are standing on Calvary. ' ' Look, please, " 
said Mr. Floyd, as he lifted one side of the brass 
plate covering the rock that was rent, " see where 
the rock was rent." St. Matthew xxvii., 5.1, "And 
the earth did quake and the rock rent." Men and 
women w^ere seen bowing low and kissing the 
very stone that covered Calvary. To our right is 
where the Virgin stood. St. John xix., 25, " Now 
there stood by the Cross of Jesus His mother." 
From Calvary we were shown down in the crypt 
to a grotto where the cross was found. Return- 
ing to the church near Calvary we enter the tomb 
of Joseph, where tradition says " they laid Him." 
St. John xix., 42, " For the sepulchre was nigh at 
hand." Here an aged woman was seen kneeling, 
kissing the tomb reverently, then, for a moment, 
she grasped the marble slab affectionately, with 
uplifted eyes. Now, armed with permission from 
the government, we are on our way to the. 



44 



MOSQUE OF OMAR. 

Soon we have passed near by the "Jews' Wailing 
Place," entering the grounds where once stood 
the Temple. Before going into the Mosque we 
are obliged to remove our shoes or cover them 
with slippers. At last we are in the Mosque 
where once stood 

KING SOLOMON'S TEMPLE. 

One could scarcely realize it. In front of us is 
the Holy Rock where Abraham offered his son 
Isaac for a sacrifice, which is fenced in so no "un- 
clean hand " can touch it. This rock is supposed 
by many Mohammedans to be suspended in the 
air, and if touched by any " unclean hand" would 
fall. We walked around the rock, then went 
down under it, where 
we were shown the 
place made in it by 
Mohammed's head 
when he arose from 
prayer; also the altar 
of Solomon. In the 
centre of the holy rock 
is a hole which many 
Mohammedans believe 
to be inhabited by all 
who die in their faith, 
but the hole was un- 




THE HOLY 



mosque of R o°mar, where donbtedly made in King 



tradition says Abraham Solomon's time where 
offered isaac unto the they made their sacri- 

LORD AS A SACRIFICE. ficeg that the Uo()d 

might flow through into the brook Kedron, which 
runs at the foot of Mt. Mariah. — Psalms 125-2. 
From here we went to another Mosque, also on the 
grounds; here we were shown the place where 
"Jesus went into the Temple and taught." — St. 
John vii., 14. From here our guide conducted us 
away down under the earth to a subterranean 
passage, supposed to have been used as a private 
entrance to the Temple, In there are great blocks 



45 

and pillars hewn from the solid stone, and to all 
appearances as perfect as the day they were placed 
there. Some of the stones we saw were thirty 
feet long, six feet deep and from eight to ten feet 
wide. Near here we were shown what is supposed 
to have been 

KING SOLOMON'S STABLES, 

composed of high arches of stone, covering many 
acres under ground; from' these extended small 
arches. I. Kings iv., 26, "And Solomon had forty 
thousand stalls of horses for his chariots and 
twelve thousand horsemen." By the way, they 
are continually making new discoveries beneath 
the ground where once stood King Solomon's 
Temple. Leaving these immense grounds and 
excavations, and passing by the Golden Gate, we 
were soon by the pool of Bethesda. St. John v. , 2. 
" Now there is at Jerusalem, by the sheep market, 
a pool which is called in the Hebrew tongue, 
Bethesda." Here we were shown two pools, but 
the one recently excavated is undoubtedly the 
real one. From the pool we went to the 

JUDGMENT SEAT OF PILATE, 

where Jesus was tried. " But Jesus gave him no 
reply! " Then Pilate said: " Speakest Thou not 
unto me?" — St. Johnxix., 9-10. Then " he brought 
Jesus forth, and sat down in the judgment seat, 
in a place that is called the pavement." — St. John 
x., 13. From here we went over the road where 
Jesus bore his cross to Calvary. St. John xix., 17, 
"And He bearing His Cross," to the place whfere 
He fainted on the way and ' 8 where they crucified 
Him." "It is finished, and He bowed His head 
and gave up the Ghost." — St. John xix., 30. Thus 
ends a noble work. "It is finished;" man is re- 
deemed ; darkness over all the earth ; the veil of 
the Temple was rent, the earth quakes, even the 
rock is rent. Buried, He has arisen and ascended 
to Heaven, " and low I am with you always even 



4 6 

unto the end of the world. Amen." — St. Matt, 
xxviii. , 20. Here we leave the scenes, and with pro- 
found reverence for all that we saw in Bible land. 
(A few extend tour by camping out to Damascus, 
often getting soaking wet en route, embarking at 
Beyrout, while others tramp the red-hot, sunny 
desert as far as "Sinai;" none of this for us, as 
we have seen all the principal Bible sights.) At 
1.30, Wednesday, December 18, we left Jerusalem 
for Jaffa, travelling undoubtedly over part of the 
road that Abraham journeyed over on his way to 
Egypt. Away we go over the lands of the tribe 
of Dan, arriving at Jaffa at 8 p. m., making the 
distance of forty miles in only seven and a half 
hours. Early Thursday morning we embark on 
the " Rahmaniel," an Egyptian mail steamer 
bound for Port Said, where we arrived early Fri- 
day morning, December 20, all well and very 
much pleased with our interesting tour of the 

HOLY LAND. 

Early Saturday morning we left Port Said for 
Ismailia, by an Egyptian postal steamer through 
the 

SUEZ CANAL. 
This great canal connects the Mediterranean with 
the Red Sea, cost nearly $100,000,000. Apart from 
M. de Lesseps, of Paris, the canal would never 
have been made ; extreme length, about 100 miles ; 
every five miles a "gare" or siding is provided 
so ships may pass. The Suez Canal, so far as we 
could see, runs through a bank of sandy desert. 
Looking over into Asia on our left, one sees now 
and then an Arab or an Egyptian and a camel. 
Soon we arrived at 

ISMAILIA. 

Is beautifully laid out. Trees have been planted on 
both sides of the street and have grown large,- 
forming an arch shading the "highway;" quite 
pretty, you know. "All aboard;" it's now 2 p. m. 
and we are on an Egyptian express postal train, 



47 



and awav we eo for some sixty miles through a 
sandy desert Ind the Land of Goshen, frequent^ 
a little village of mud huts, that's about al 1; but 
after the firft sixty miles the country is fertile, for 




it is watered from the Nile; now the country is 
most beautiful, and the grass is as green as m 
May in New Jersey. Everywhere the natives are 
seen plowing. Yonder is a view of the pyramids, 

arriving at 

5 CAIRO, EGYPT, 

at k w P. m., 130 miles from Ismallia. Cairo is 
perhaps the most beautiful example ot a Mo- 



hammedail capital. The census gives Cairo a 
population of 308,108 and Egypt 6,806,381. Under 
the Pharaohs Egypt was an agricultural country. 
It is distinguished for the very prominent part it 
played in ancient Bible history. Here Abraham 
came when there was a famine in Canaan, Gen. 
xii., 10. Here Joseph was brought after being 
sold by his brethern, Gen. xxxvii., 23-28. Near 
Cairo, along the banks of the Nile, Pharaoh's 
daughter found Moses, Exodus ii., 6. Then, too 
it must not be forgotten, "unto Egypt'* we are 
told the Virgin fled with the young child. St. 
Matthew ii., 14, " He took, the young child and his 
mother by night and departed into Egypt." 
Saturday, December 21, was a beautiful morning 
and with a good two-horse carriage, driver and 
dragoman, we were soon at the chief Mosque of 
Cairo, the 

3 THE MOSQUE OF SULTAN HASSAN, 

which of course we entered shoeless. From here 
we were driven to the 

CITADEL, 

and again enter another, the Mosque of Mo- 
hammed Ali, where we were shown the tomb of 
Mohammed Ali, from the grounds of the Citadel 
we were well paid for coming, for here we got a 
splendid 

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF CAIRO. 

" He who has not seen Cairo, has not seen the 
world ; its soil is gold, its Nile and Pyramids a 
wonder, its women are like the black-eyed virgins 
of Paradise." We have now had a bird's-eye view, 
all the surrounding country lies like a map before 
us. Yonder, to our left, is the tomb of the "Mam- 
1 ukes ' ' and old Cairo, the Nile and Memphis Pyra- 
mids. - The mummies of the Pharaohs in yonder 
palace. Beyond, the Great Pyramids, Sphinx and 
the Sahara desert ; what a glimpse of ancient his 
tory ! On we go to 



49 



JOSEPH'S WELk, 

to where we are told Joseph came for water. 
Here, no doubt, the 
Pharaohs came also, 
and Moses too. Deep 
down ioo feet is water, 
and a winding road 
leads to it ; now return- 
ing, and as we tread | 
the winding alleys 
through the old ba- 
zaars, a thin streak of 
sky marked the narrow 
space, or riding 
through the streets we 




see some very curious 
and ancient sights. 
Entering 



A BIT OF CAIRO, NEAR 
JOSEPH'S WELL. 



SHEPHERDS' HOTEL, 

we are just in time to see the Khedive pass with 
his royal body-guard. He is a fine looking man 
with " only one wife." Armed with a Government 
permission the next day we enter the r 

BULAK MUSEUM. 

Here we saw ancient statuary, mummies and 
coffins, taken from the tombs on the banks of the 
Nile. On we go to the great pyramids, and we 
found the carriage road excellent all the way, 
some ten miles, and shaded by large trees that 
form an arch over the road. For miles we drove 
along the banks of the Nile, then the river bends 
and leaves us ; after another little stretch we are 
in front of the 

GREAT PYRAMID 

of Khuf u (Cheops) at Giza. We looked at them with 
amazement, wondering if they were built by giants. 
1 ' There were giants in the earth in those days * * 
The same became mighty men." Gen. vi., 4. Did 
the Bible refer to the pyramids? were they built be- 
fore the flood? No one knows. It certainly required 



5° 

mighty men to hew and handle such stone as we 
saw. From here we walked through the sand 
to the 

SPHINX. 




5i 



We always sup- 
posed that the 
Bartholdi Statue of 
Liberty in the New 
York Bay, which is 
137 ft. 6 in. high, 
measuring from 
the feet to the 
upper end of the 
torch, to be the 
largest statue in 
the world. We find 
we are mistaken, 
for the Sphinx, 
which is sculptured 
out of a solid spur 
of rock is larger, 
for it measures 172 
feet 6 inches long, 
while the face or 
front is fifty-six 
feet high. Well, we 
went around in 
front and took a 
good look at her 
face, then descend- 
ed into the temple 
of the Sphinx, 
which has been 
recently excavated 
from the sands of 
time; returning, 
walked all over her 
back, ascended the 
Great Pyramid, 
looked into the 
King's and Queen's 
chambers. But we 
are dumbfounded 




OBELISK FROM ALEXANDRIA, 
EGYPT. 

Now at Central Park, New York 

City. Gift of the late Wm. 

H. Vanderbilt. 



In the Great Pyramid, it is estimated, is enough 
stone to build a wall four feet high, two feet thick, 



52 



from New York City to Salt Lake City, two 
thousand miles. Imagine an immense four-sided 
bulk of solid masonry tapering towards the sky 
480 feet. The base is almost a perfect square, each 
side measuring about 740 feet, and covers 13 acres. 
Picture such a space ; perhaps on your farm you 
have a thirteen-acre field nearly square. Having 
fixed your land measurements, now raise your eyes 
toward heaven and imagine a solid mass of 
masonry 480 feet high. We are told it took 300,- 
000 men between twenty and thirty years to build. 
Inside the Great Pyramid are two large chambers, 
called the King s and Queen's Chambers. Entering, 
the masonry is as perfect as when placed there, 
nobody knows when. Immense stones were used, 
some thirty feet long, ten feet wide, eight or ten 
feet deep. It is said the stone was brought here 
from a quarry some twenty miles. Now leaving 
one of the wonders of the world we drive to the 

KHEDIVE'S PALACE, 

or the new Giza museum. Here we looked upon 
the faces of the mummies of the Pharaohs. They 
are guarded carefully; while one man leads the 





way, two follow closely on your heels. The new 
museum will be the finest in the world when com- 



53 

pleted. It was with some difficulty that we got 
into it at all; there was a good deal of "red 
tape." At 9 a. m., promptly, December 25th, 
we turned our backs upon Cairo, with her gay 
amusements, the Pyramids, Sphinx — the wonders 
of the world. Turning our faces from the ghastly 
sight of the mummies of the Pharaohs, and as 
the express train speeds along, we take a side 
look at the great Pyramids. The morning sun had 
thrown its rays upon them and they seem to say : 
"Time mocks all things, but we laugh at time." 
Onward flies our Egyptian express, till, 1 . 30 p. m. , 
we arrive at Ismailia, where we embarked on the 

P. & O. STEAMER "KHEDIVE" 

the following morning at 5.21. Rather early, but 
we were well repaid when we saw her coming, the 
great electric search light reaching far out into 
the canal; it was a pretty sight. Entering the 
11 Bitter Lakes," we arrive at the Suez at 2 p. m. 
The bay was as pretty as a picture. But we did 
not tarry at Suez (population 10,913); soon we are 
steaming down the gulf. The good ship is beauti- 
fully trimmed with flags, etc. , for yesterday was 
Christmas. " Here is Moses well to the left." The 
hills now on both sides look barren, no signs of 
vegetation ; in the distance, a long way off, is 

MOUNT SINAI, 

where Moses received 
the Ten Command- 
ments; a hill on the 
African side has streaks 
of very red clay, and 
looks volcanic, but there 
are no volcanos here. 
Beyond is the river Nile, 
which flows over 1,000 
miles without a single 
tributary. Somewhere 
here the children of Is- 
rael crossed the Red 
Sea; nobody seems to convent and mount sinai. 




54 

know exactly where — Exodus xiv. , 21-28. Now the 
rocks "Two Brothers" are sighted. Friday, Satur- 
day and Sunday, the thermometer registered 85 to 
87 in the shade at 9 a. m. The Captain, who locks 
like ex-President Hayes, exclaimed it was hot 
enough to roast eggs in the sun. No wonder, for 
on either side of the Red Sea are great deserts. 
Here we are even with 

MECCA, 

where Mohammed AH was born. All good Mo- 
hammedans, you know, pray with their faces 
toward Mecca, and whose evening call to prayer 
is "Allahu Akbar." There is no God but God. 
Mohammed is the Apostle of God. "Come to 
prayer, come to salvation ; Allahu Akbar, Lailaha 
illa-illah.' , Sixty thousand gallons of wine is 
drunk annually at communion tables in America 
("Water into wine," John ii., 1-11). There are 
1,000 different confessions of faith in the world, 
and 3,064 languages spoken. The entire popula- 
tion of the globe is twelve hundred million, of 
whom 35,214,000 die every year, 96,480 every day, 
4,020 every hour, 67 every minute. On the other 
hand, the births amount to 36,792,000 every year, 
] 00, 800 every day, 4,200 every hour, and 70 every 
minute. You may ask, Where do they all go? 
Our answer must be, Is there any end to space ? 
Remember, too, of this vast army of human 
beings there are no two exactly alike. There is a 
supposition that 

HEAVEN, 

. is one of the Pleiades (one of a group of seven 
stars, commonly called " Seven Sisters " from its 
remarkable attraction, recently discovered by as- 
tronomers). This star is mentioned in the Holy 
Bible, as follows: "Then the Lord answered 
Job * * * (Job xxxviii., 1): Canst Thou bind the 
sweet influence of Pleiades" (Job xxxviii., 31). Who 
but the Lord knew of the "sweet influence?" 
Certainly man did not. These stars are visible 



55 

at certain times in both hemispheres — of course, 
remember this is only supposition. Well, we have 
passed the "Twelve Apostles," twelve rocks in 
the Red Sea. To our left is Arabia, where 




VIEW IN THE RED SEA. 

(Our good ship passing the Twelve Apostles at midnight.) 

15,000,000 manage to live ; heat intense. To our 
right Africa; nobody knows her population. At 
10 p. m. Perim is sighted, well fortified by the 
British. Entering the Bay of 

ADEN, IN INDIA, 
early Tuesday morning, December 31, 1889. Here 
lies anchored the celebrated English man-of-war, 
"Calliope," which recently steamed out of the 
great cyclone off Samoa, an island in the Pacific, 
w T hile the American and German men-of-war were 
all lost. Entering Aden from the sea reminds one 
of Gibraltar. Aden although in Arabia really be- 
longs and is called "Aden, India," being governed 
by India. The natives are nearly naked, as the 



56 

heat here is intense ; no rain has fallen here during 
the last three years, and they have been known 
to have been without rain for seven years. We 
were not favorably impressed with rocky old 
Aden ; and soon we are steaming out into the Gulf 
of Aden, into the 

ARABIAN SEA, 

passing Cape Guardafui, the last bit of Africa, on 
our right and Socotra, an island in the sea, on our 
left. From November to March the Arabian Sea 
is always " moderate and fine;" we find it nearly 
as smooth as glass all the way to 

COLOMBO, CEYLON, 

where we arrive Tuesday, January 7, 1890, at 8 
p.m., being by sea 7,058 miles from London, or 
10,519 miles from New York City via Glasgow. 
The view approaching Colombo from the sea 
is fine. Population, 111,942. The island of 
Ceylon is about twice the size of New Jersey. 
Steaming behind the great breakwaters, we 
find the heat unbearable, the humidity the 
greatest we ever experienced either in Europe or 
America. As we landed on the pier there was the 
Hon. Joseph Pulitzer, proprietor of the New York 
World, who looked ' ' red hot " in his big helmet. 
About the weather, in an interview with a reporter 
of the Times of Ceylon, January 7, the great 
newspaper man replied: " Oh, well, you can see me 
all right here ; I am half naked, and all together 
uncomfortable in this heat." Approaching us he 
said: " Well, Mayor Beatty, what are you doing 
away over here? ain't you lost?" " Doing? why, I 
am making a tour of the world." "Oh, I see." 
After exchanging the compliments of the season, 
and informing him that we were at the laying of the 
corner stone of Pulitzer's World Building before our 
departure, he continued : ' ' Do you know the build- 
ing has already reached its eleventh story?" The 
World man and ex-Congressman said he would sail 
for Calcutta at once, by the " Khedive," which was 
the steamer that brought us from Egypt. Bidding 



57 

each other "bon voyage" we separate, and away 
went the World man for his steamer, with his 
doctor, secretary and two native servants. Taking 
a carriage we pass the Governor's residence, 
barracks and beautiful rocks along the beach. Now 
we are on the " Galle Face" road by the sea; it 
is very pretty, reminding one of " on the beach 
at Long Branch " only ten times nicer. Pass the 
museum to the ''Cinnamon Gardens," perhaps 
the finest tropical garden of the kind in the world. 
Now we are driving down the Fifth Avenue of 
Colombo, where we saw some of the most beauti- 
ful lawns and tropical scenery in front of residen- 
ces that mortal man ever beheld; Egypt was 
nowhere. "There you are," exclaimed our 240- 
pound guide, who looked the picture of the late 
Wm. H. Vanderbilt, as he pointed to Slave Island 
Lake. It was beautiful. Now crossing the railway 
to Kandy and Nuvvara Elija, where it is said the 
coolies work for sixteen cents per day, supporting 
a large family, subsisting on 

CURRY AND RICE. 

The men natives let their hair grow long, and 
do it up in a knot at the back of the head the same 
as the women, placing in the hair on top of the 
head a curved tortoise shell comb. Frequently 
we see them wearing no hat at all. One can 
scarcely tell the males from the females. We in- 
tended to have remained in Ceylon two weeks, 
then taking a side trip to Calcutta, Benares, Delhi, 
etc. , embarking at Bombay for Australia, but the 
heat was so intense at Colombo that we feared to 
make the journey. After seeing all of Colombo 
worth seeing we embarked on the 

P. AND O. STEAMER "PARAMATTA," 

crossing the equator at 5 a. m., Friday, January 
10, on our way to a cooler climate, as Ceylon, we 
must certainly agree with the " World man," is 
" altogether uncomfortable." By the way, we did 
not see the line while 



53 

CROSSING THE EQUATOR, 

nor were our feet chalked, nor were we tarred 
and feathered, as is said was the custom in former 
days ; on the contrary, an orchestra played six airs 



' """""■""•"■""- ' ^"^ 




LEAVING CEYLON BOUND FOR AUSTRALIA. 
w (Adams Peak in the distance.) 

during the forenoon. Thursday, Friday, Satur- 
day and Sunday, January 9, 10, 11 and 12 — The 
sky is cloudy, and at times it rained very hard, 
for we have entered the northwest or middle mon- 
soon. On we go through the 

INDIAN OCEAN, 

whose mighty body of water covers 25,000,000 
square miles, while the land area of North and 
South America is only 15,745,576. On oue return 
to America we shall cross the Pacific, 67,800,000 
square miies. What hidden treasures lie deep 
buried under these vast bodies of w r ater! How 
.many steamers and sailing vessels there are who 
have left a safe harbor with many human beings, 



59 

valuable cargo, etc., who never afterward have 
been heard from — gone down, perhaps, in a storm, 
a collision, fire or cyclone, maybe, as it were, in a 
twinkling of an eye. The greatest depth of the 
ocean of which soundings have been taken is off 
the coast of Japan. At that point the water is 
five miles deep, and at the bottom traces of ani- 
mal life have been found. 

Before leaving America, we applied for a 

PASSPORT, 

part of which reads: " Safely and freely to pass, 
and in case of need to give him all lawful aid and 
protection." Well, so far we have had no occa- 
sion to use it. We passed everywhere ' ' safely 
and freely," nor have we needed "lawful aid and 
protection." However, thanks to Uncle Sam for 
this safeguard. Every evening now the 

SOUTHERN CROSS 

is visible. It is composed of four very brilliant 
fixed stars, forming a perfect cross, with two 
bright "Centaur" stars, who never weary point- 
ing at the cross, which is the mariner's guide in 
the southern latitude, the same as the "north 
star " is in the northern. All the way from Col- 
ombo to nearly King George's Sound, Australia, a 
distance of nearly 4,000 miles, not a sign of a ship 
do we see ; now and then a shark and a few flying 
fish, that's all. Now Cape Leeuwin is sighted, 
a dangerous coast, where, we are sorry to say, 
there is no lighthouse. Approaching 

WESTERN AUSTRALIA, 

soon after leaving the cape, the shore looks 
scrubby, w T ith here and there patches of sand. 
Some twenty miles further on reminds us of 
the coast of Ireland, as we steam toward Queens- 
town from America — especially the rocks; of 
course, it is not so green. A run of thirty miles 
further one sees great bluffs, similar to the Palis- 
ades on the Hudson River, New York ; some ten 



6o 

miles more, and it is the picture of the Highlands 
below Sandy Hook, New Jersey. Steaming up 
King George's Sound, fringed with snow-white 
sand, the sight was very fine. Arriving at 

ALBANY 

January 19, 1890, at 5 p. m., being from England 
10,950 miles, or 14,411 miles from New York City 
via Glasgow. Strolling through the streets we 
find them wide and dusty. The town is situated on 
rising ground, at the foot of Mount Clarence and 
Melville, population 2,000, and is 261 miles south- 
east of Perth, population 5,044, the capital of 




ALBANY, KING GEORGE'S SOUND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 

Western Australia. The men wear great wide- 
brim slouch hats. In the interior of Western 
Australia are the Great Sandy and Victoria 
Deserts, and many dry salt lakes. At certain 
times of the year these lakes are filled with water; 
at other seasons they are simply a dry cake of 



6i 

salt, white as snow and used for eating purposes. 
Poison grass abounds in many places fatal to 
cattle and sheep. 

Western Australia is the largest division of 
Australia, being 1,490 miles long, 850 wide. The 
last census gives the number of inhabitants of 
this vast tract of land at 29,708. Fertile land 
exists here only in patches, the greater portion of 
the country being sand, scrub and great forests. 
Leaving Albany January 20, we proceed across 
the great Australia Bight. New York City lies 
directly under the Bight. If the reader doubts 
this let him examine a globe (not a map) of the 
world. Of course we must be then half way 
around the world, via Australia. December, 
January and February is summer in Australia; 
springtime in North America means autumn here, 
and autumn, spring, just the opposite of North 
America, ^Europe, Asia, etc. The further south 
we go the colder it gets. Over the Bight merrily 
we go (for here we are royally entertained by 
orchestra, tableaux and play, best we ever wit- 
nessed at sea), through Investigator's Straits, pass 
Spencer's Gulf and Cape, side Kangaroo Island, 
up Gulf St. Vincent past Glenelg, along side of 

SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 

where 293,509 people live, whose area of square 
miles is 903,690, or nearly four times larger than 
Texas, where copper and iron ores are mined, and 
great forests of gum trees, fertile lands, grape 
vineyards, etc., abound. But alas, in the interior 
often five years drouth are known, dry salt lakes, 
Ross and other deserts are found. On we go to a 
pier near Semaphore, thence ten miles by rail via 
Port Adelaide, arriving at 

ADELAIDE, 

the capital, population 38,479, January 23, 1890, at 
1 2 noon. Adelaide lies on a level plain at the foot 
of several hills; streets wide, clean, and many 
nicely shaded ; nouses built of stone, marble and 



62 

brick; double deck two horse street cars 
Passing House of Parliament, Royal Exchange', 

w°r7- n H o llj Post ° mce h y carriage up King 
William Street to Royal Courts, thence through 
the suburbs to the Royal Botanic Gardens and 
Zoo over forty acres; returning via the Cattle and 
Jubilee Exhibition Buildings, entering the Arcade 




and stores. We found the citizens extremely 
polite and obliging. Average heat of Adelaide, 
January, 1890 (summer), 106 shade, 147 sun, hottest 
season ever known. Rather too hot for us, and at 
6 p. m. we steam away. Near Cape Jervis over 
Encounter Bay we go, passing to our left Nelson, 
Portland, etc., up Phillips Bay, surrounded by the 
lands of VICTORIA) AUSTBAUAf 
whose area of square miles is 87,884, or nearly as 
large as England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland 



• 



63 

combined. Here we are lashed fast to Williams- 
town Pier, Saturday, Jan. 25, 12.05 noon, ten 
miles south of Melbourne, near where you may 
drop a lead seven fathoms at low tide. There to 
our right lies the great Australian city. Nothing 
to suggest it, however, excepting Exhibition Build- 
ing dome, steeples and far away haze of her 
smoke. Now taking a special Royal train, we 
wind the bay horseshoe fashion, passing many 
one-story frame houses at Beach, Newport, Foots- 
cray (here we see to our left an Australian race 
course), etc., stepping out upon an ordinary plat- 
form, at 

MELBOURNE, 

We have nothing to remind us that we are in so 
large and so handsomely built a city, as the houses 
at the station are low and ordinary, excepting 




THE GRAND HOTEL, MELBOURNE, VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA. 

hacks, carriages, etc. Melbourne, the capital of 
Victoria, population 291,464, and with her suburbs 
nearly half a million, is certainly a very enterpris- 
ing and American style city, for her people dress, 



6 4 

act and speak like Americans, her streets are 
broad, and the cable American style tramway 
system is pertect; traveling the streets of Met 
bourne one could easily imagine they were in 




Chicago 111. Melbourne was founded in 1836. 
I he rapidity of its growth is historical; all that 
enterprise, talent and gold can produce has been 



65 

carried out here to its utmost. Imagine a city of 
one hundred miles of streets, straight and wide, 
many planted with trees; an area of seven square 
miles, beautiful parks and botanical gardens, great 
and handsome buildings built on little hills look- 
ing like a level plain from the bay, and you have 
Melbourne. Well, at 1.37 p. m., Wednesday, Jan- 
uary 29, we left Melbourne for Sydney, New South 
Wales. Out of Phillips Bay we go through Bass 
Straits ; to our right is Tasmania and to our left 
Victoria ; now rounding Cape Howe into the South 
Pacific Ocean we go, and soon we are sailing up 
Port Jackson, one of the most beautiful and safe 
harbors to be found in the world. No pen can de- 
scribe the many beautiful changes of scenery as 
our good ship glides to her pier, arriving at 

SYDNEY, N. S. W., 

Friday, January 3r, at 4 p. m. Sydney is the 
capital seat of government of New South Wales ; 




A BIT OF THE BOTANICAL GARDENS, SYDNEY, N. S. W., 
AUSTRALIA. 

it is the site of the 'first settlement in Australia, 
and is built on the southern shores of Port Jack- 
son. Port Jackson is only eight miles long, but 



66 

its coast line measures 165 miles, being indented 
here and there with pretty bays. Here in Sydney 
we find beautiful gardens and parks, miles of 
winding streets, massive and well-built buildings 
and warehouses that would be a credit to any 
city; population about 300,000. 

After arranging for our passage to New Zealand, 
Honolulu and San Francisco, on February 1, a 
stroll was made through the principal streets of 
Sydney, and during a week's stay here excursions 
were made to Bondi and Coogee, beautiful side 
suburbs. The views here were grand ; huge per- 
pendicular rocks rise high above the great Pacific, 
and breakers that often rise fifty feet. Now down 
Sydney harbor we go to Manly Beach, a fine sea 
coast, and as our steamer speeds along a magnifi- 
cent view is obtained of the Governor's residence, 
Botanical Gardens, Watson Bay, and a peep into 
Middle Harbor. Our week's stay at Sydney is 
now ended, and on February 7 away we go along 
the Parramatta River, through the town bearing 
its name, on an Australian express train to Pen- 
rith, near where we cross the Nepean River, on 
whose smooth waters Beach defeated H anion for 
the championship of the world. Shortly after 
leaving Penrith the ascent of the 

BLUE MOUNTAINS OF AUSTRALIA 

is commenced by the "little zig-zag," and as the 
train passes from zig to zag an extended view is 
obtained of the Emu Plains, Nepean River and 
agricultural valley below, dotted here and there 
with orange groves. Thirty-six miles away lies 
Sydney. Now the train enters a deep cut and 
winds the mountains right and left, then along the 
edge of a deep precipice, where one can look down 
nearly 3,000 feet below into the Kanimbla Valley, 
Now a glimpse of the valley of the Grouse, with 
her huge cliffs extending 3,000 feet toward the 
heavens, as we see them from the valley below, 
until 1.55 p. m, 



67 



MOUNT VICTORIA 

is reached, being 3,422 feet above the level of the 
Pacific Ocean. Here we tarry for five days to see 




THE GREAT ZIG-ZAG OVER THE BLUE MOUNTAINS* 

NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA. 



68 

the wonderful sights in these mountains. The 
first place we visit is the "great zig-zag," ninety- 
two miles west of Sydney, on the northern dividing 
range — this wonderful piece of engineering cost 
$125,000 per mile — thence to Mount Piddington 
we go, to get an extensive view of the valley below, 
then down the little zig-zag to 

BUSHRANGER'S CAVES. 

Entering, one fancies he sees one of the old 
bushrangers making for him, so dark and dismal 
are the surroundings. The engineer's cascade is 
next visited, which is quite pretty, also the road 
to Mt. York, etc. , but the greatest sight of all is 

GOVETT'S LEAF, 

near Blackheath. Approaching to a point of rock 
in front is an awful gulf, 3,000 feet below; an im- 
mense valley we see, walled in by perpendicular 
cliffs, stretching away as far as the eye can reach 
into the valley of the Grouse. At the bottom is 
a perfect sea of foliage, huge trees that look like 
small shrubs. To the right is the leap or falls, 
which descend 520 feet without a break. As the 
mist arose from the falls below, before us is a 
beautiful rainbow. What a magnificent sight ! 

At Katoomba Falls we descend deep down 
under them, in order to see them properly. Near 
by is the " Orphan Rock," 1,000 feet high; over 
beyond are the " Three Sisters." In the valley 
below, 3,000 feet, is seen the Katoomba coal 
mines, with its clustering village where the miners 
live, some of whom, it is said, have never been 
out of this deep chasm. On approaching the 

WENTWORTH FALLS, 

some four miles from Katoomba, a winding foot- 
path leads the way down the mountain side to a 
point of rock extending some ten feet beyond the 
falls. Down deep, over a vast amphitheatre of 
rock, we see this fearful leap of water, first over 
a. cataract, headlong it goes over three great 



7o 

falls, some 1,200 feet, to the valley below. The 
clouds had lifted over the scene just as we ap- 
proached. It was a magnificent sight. To our 
right now we wind our way among the cliffs of 
the rocks to the never weary "Weeping Rock." 
Returning to Sydney, February 14, we take the 
beautiful 

* * IL1AWARRA LINE, • ' 

passing near by Botany Bay, where Captain 
Cook, it is said, first landed in 1770, over George 
River, skirting the National Park,- Clifton, Bulli 
Pass, near Fitzroy Falls and Kangaroo Valley, 
Wollongong to Kiama, seventy miles south of 
Sydney, the present terminus of this wild and 
romantic line, to the 

"BLOWHOLE" 

we go, to see a crater where water spouts often a 
hundred feet high from a subterranean passage 
below, roaring like distant thunder, a curious 
sight. Returning again to Sydney, over ,the 
North Line we go, crossing the Parramatta River 
to the famous 

HAWKESBURY RIVER, 

being thirty-six miles north of Sydney, a very 
picturesque river, reminding one of the beautiful 
lakes of Killarney, Ireland, forming, as it does in 
its course, many pretty bays, almost surrounded 
by green hills ; to reach this part you pass 
through six tunnels in less than six miles. Time 
flies, and we must not weary our readers. Well, 
New South Wales has an area of 316,320 square 
miles, or nearly four times as large as Victoria, 
Australia. The interior of N. S. W. is a great 
sheep growing country ; a fellow-passenger, who 
occupies 750,000 acres, owns 1,500,000 sheep and 
10,000 cattle, informed me that he had no debts — 
of course he must be a millionaire. Australia, as 
everybody knows, grows the finest wool in the 
world. February 19, at 4p.n1,, while the good 



71 



people of New Jersey are asleep, for it's one 
o'clock in the morning in New Jersey, we steam 




BRIDGE OVER THE BEAUTIFUL "HAWKESBURY RIVER/' 
NEAR SYDNEY, N. S. WALES, AUSTRALIA. 



out into the South Pacific Ocean, through the 




SYDNEY HARBOR, FROM NORTH HEAD. 

Our good ship leaving Sydney Harbor, N. S. W. 

" Out into the great Pacific Ocean we go." 

South and North Heads, on the Oceanic Steam- 
ship Co.'s steamer 

" ALAMEDA," 
bidding good-bye to Australia, after having 
visited all the colonies, excepting Queensland, 
which is entirely too hot to visit at this season of 
the year. This steamer, the ' 'Alameda," that takes 
us away from the shores of Australia, brought 
Lord Carrington, Governor of N. S. W., from 
New Zealand a fortnight ago. One thing, this 
steamer, owned by an American company, is well 
built, roomy and clean, and a better table we 
have yet to find at sea. Now approaching North 
End, 

NEW ZEALAND, 

we are reminded of the coast near Holyhead, 
Wales. Further around towards Auckland is seen 



73 

immense bluffs; to our left is Great Barrier Island, 
and single, dangerous rocks peep up out of the 
Pacific. Entering the Hauraki Gulf, to our right 
is seen the celebrated hot springs of Waiwera, and 
the broad waters of the Firth of Thames to our 
left. Now we are sailing up the harbor, dotted 
here and there by beautiful residences and pine 
trees. Yonder is Mount Eden, an extinct Volcano ; 
the approach to the city is very pretty. Well, 
February 23 we arrive at 

AUCKLAND, 
a city of some 40,000 inhabitants, streets broad, 
well and substantially built buildings, two-horse 
street cars, with one of the best steamboat piers 
in the world. Strolling up Queen St. we wind 
our way, visiting the many sights of the city, 
thence to " Jacob's Ladder," at the base of "Old 
Bloody Sky" or Mount Eden, an extnict volcano, 
the principle sight. Winding our way zig-zag- 
fashion near the top we pause to look into the 
crater, which reminds us of Mt. Vesuvius, Italy. 
Now climbing still higher, to the very pinnacle, we 
get a grand bird's-eye view of Auckland and 
surrounding country; here one can see away 
across New Zealand from ocean to ocean. Here lies 
at our feet Auckland and her magnificent harbor; 
yonder is Mount Albert, another extinct Volcano. 
Auckland is built upon a volcanic isthmus ; within 
a radius of ten miles of the city Hockstetter dis- 
covered 63 points of eruption; of course at the 
present time they are extinct, the principal one 
being old " Bloody Sky." 

THE MAORIS. 

The tradition of the natives, the Maoris, is 
shrouded in mystery; nobody in Auckland or 
anywhere else seems to know their origin. 
When Captain Cook landed in 1770 there were 
some 90,000 in New Zealand, now it is said only 
40,000 survive; thus the Maoris, like the volcanos, 
are fast becoming extinct; originally they were 



74 

man-eaters, and fed on rats, dogs, etc., but now 
they are becoming civilized and are to be seen 
walking the streets of Auckland. Approaching 
one I asked him if he could speak English. He 
tipped his hat and smiled, but made no reply, 
poor fellow; his countenance seemed to speak 
louder than words, "Our race is fast passing 
away." Leaving "Old Bloody Sky," we took 
another look into her great crater, which once 
was a mass of ( liquid fire ; it is now cold and 
silent, and cattle' were grazing on its steep sides, 
and two little girls had wandered their way along 
the crater. When asked why they were here, 
replied: "Oh, mister, we are on our way to a 
picnic, just on the other side of the mountain." 
New Zealand covers an area of 105,342 square 
miles, or about thirteen times larger than New 
Jersey. Her mountain scenery ranks among the 
grandest in the world. Here we find t snow- 
capped peaks — Mt. Cook, the Mt. Blanc of the 
New Zealand Alps, being 13,200 feet high — im- 
mense glaziers eighteen miles long by two broad, 
bluffs, etc. The pink and white terraces, recently 
destroyed by an earthquake, were said to have 
been one of the wonders of the world. Here we 
find fertile lands, where wheat, oats and flax in 
large quantities are yielded annually, supplying 
her sister colonies with wheat and oats. It is 
also a great sheep-growing country ; the climate 
is pleasant, rainfall far better than in Australia. 
Wellington, the capital and ^eat of government, 
lies in the south. This year Duneden has an ex- 
hibition, but as we have visited the Paris Exhibi- 
tion of 1878 and 1889 we think it not worth our 
while to visit this. We steam out into the South- 
ern Pacific Ocean on our way to 

TUTUrLA, SAMOA. 

Tuesday, February 25, we are near the 180th 
meridian, and this of course is Tuesday. The 
next day, about 9 a. m., we cross the meridian. 



75 

Before nine o clock it was Wednesday morning, 
but immediately after crossing it we are set back 
a day and find it is again Tuesday, February 25, 
making really one day and night forty-eight 
hours ; thus traveling around the world east we 
gain a day, while going west a day is lost. As 
we steam along to the left of us is the 

KERMADIC, 

a group of seven islands, and we are told they 
are not inhabited. If this is so, here is a chance 
for emigration. The largest is said to be twelve 
miles in circumference. It is a belief that in 
former ages Australia extended far beyond its 
present limits, and that a great continent once 
existed, perhaps as large as Africa and Asia com- 
bined, where only a remnant composed of seven 
island groups are now to be found. After all, the 
Australasian colonies, seven in number, covering 
an ->area of 3,075,135 square miles, had only 
3,091,897 human beings residing here in 1883, and 
have only increased about 1,000,000 since. A vast 
country, nearly as large as the United States, 
which has an area of 3,547,000 square miles, while 
the present estimated population of the United 
States is 64,000,000, and the annual growth by 
natural causes and immigration is placed at 
1,000,000. On we go steaming on the coast of 

POLYNESIA, 

passing through the Friendly, Hapai, group of 
islands. We found them very friendly, for the 
water and weather, as we steamed through them, 
was all that one could desire; the balmy breezes 
were delightful. Here, to our left, we go near 
the group of the 250 

FIJI ISLANDS, POLYNESIA, 

discovered by Tasman, a Dutch navigator in 1646, 
area 8,000 square miles, or nearly as large as 
Massachusetts. All the Fiji groiip rise steeply from 



76 

the sea; they are hilly rather than mountainous, 
although the highest peak rises 4,000 feet; hurri- 
canes are numerous ; heat, summer 120 shade, and 
sixty the lowest in winter; population, native 
115,000; Europeans 3,500, and immigrants 9,600. 
The natives are probably the finest species of the 
dark race of the Pacific, being tall and robust, 
hair and beard frizzled. Fruits, including pine- 
apples, bananas, cocoanuts, limes, lemons, toma- 
toes, bread fruits, etc., are raised in great quanti- 
ties, exporting $2,000,000 worth annually. Living 
in a country where nearly all their wants are 
supplied by nature, wearing little or no clothing, 
the Fiji has little need to labor; rainfall is 
abundant, climate healthy, but evidences of vol- 
canic eruptions are everywhere visible. Fiji is 
under British rule, raising $500,000 annually for 
the Crown, which is obtained from customs 
license, etc. Sura is the seat of government; 
on the whole we have seen worse places than 
these islands. 

TUTUILA, SAMOA. 

The approach to these beautiful islands of the 
sea, Friday, February 28, was exceedingly fine, 
especially when we saw the little canoes filled with 
natives making an exciting race for our steamer ; 
and before one is aware of it they are on deck, 
offering us many curiosities for sale. They are 
copper-colored people, exceedingly well built, 
very polite, and it is said honest and honorable in 
all their dealings. Like the Fijis, nature supplies 
them with an abundance of food, and wearing 
very little clothing, they too need not work very 
hard for a living. The island is everywhere green 
with vegetation ; cocoanut and banana trees are to 
be seen on every side, and the shores are dotted 
here and there with native straw huts. Yonder lies 
anchored the "Adams," an American man-of-war; 
beyond is the scene of the dreadful cyclone which 
occurred here about a year ago, so familiar in the 



77 

world's history, which really did settle the dispute 
between powerful nations, putting the native 




T£MM£0S4 AT UO ME—AX E YEKiyQ-SCEKB IX HIS PALACE.. 

king back upon his throne. Well, early Monday 
morning, March 3, we crossed the 

EQUATOR, 

and found the air balmy and the sea all that one 
could desire. 

A WATER SPOUT. 

Looking westward, Thursday, March 5, we saw 
a tremendous water spout, reaching to the very 
clouds r that hung darkly, mountain-peak style, 
upside down. Of this awful and curious sight an 
officer, who has travelled the ocean for the past 
thirteen years, said it was the largest he ever saw, 
and that it must have weighed hundreds of tons, 
being a mile in diameter; he continued that if it 
had struck our ship it would have gone through 
the upper deck as easily as he could have put his 
finger through a newspaper. The phenomena was 



73 

followed by a great fall of rain, and very heavy 
sea, blowing at times almost a hurricane The 
following morning, through the thick mist, an out- 
IZt I • t ? OUn - t£ ^ P eak on the Hawaiian Islands 
was faintly visible. Arriving off Honolulu, we 




MONUMENT IN FRONT OP GOVERNMENT BUILDING 
HONOLULU HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 



79 



could not enter the harbor, for the mountain. 
Ske waves that played around her coast. For 




COCOANUT GROVE, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 



8o 

twenty-four hours we laid outside in a heavy sea, 
tossing about like a feather, reminding us of our 
experience at Jaffa. An officer who has landed 
here ninety-four times said he never knew this to 
happen before, and that this was the first time 
in seven years that the "Alameda" could not go to 
her dock at once. ' At last the pilot ventured out 
through the great waves and breakers, and we 
are safely conducted through the dangerous coral 
reefs at 

HONOLULU, OAHU. 
Upon landing we learned that the city and 
surrounding country had had the greatest rain 
storm known here for fifteen years. The railway 
was washed out in many places, no trains were 
running; the road to " Pali" and "Punchbowl" 
was impassible, two of the principal sights here. 
Of course we had to view them from a distance. 
However, we were able to drive to 

WAIKIKI, 

a seaside resort at the base of the old Diamond 
Point, an extinct volcano, passing on our way 
the King's palace, government buildings, pretty 
residences, rice fields, banana and cocoanut 
groves, tropical gardens, reminding one of Ceylon, 
only the natives here all wear clothing. Here a 
stroll was made along the beautiful coast and 
King's Park, etc. The climate of Honolulu is de- 
lightful, never too hot or too cold the whole year 
around, and the soil is exceedingly fertile and 
productive in the valleys, and almost every house 
in the city has a telephone. Of course Honolulu 
lies at the foot of several large mountains, which 
are of volcanic formation, population 7,000, and 
the group of fifteen islands have a population of 
57,985, and the whole contains 6,667 square miles. 
Here is the 

HOUSE OF FIRE, 
being the greatest active volcano in the world. 
^Leaving the city the mountains look barren and 



8i 

volcanic. Here is one that is shaped just like the 
Great Pyramid of Egypt. To our right as we steam 
along is 

MOLOKAI, 

where there is a leprous settlement in a valley 
entirely surrounded by mountains, and the only 
way to reach it is by sea. On we go, leaving 
behind this dreadful sight of human misery, 
through the North Pacific Ocean. Approaching 
the great continent of 

>ORTH AMERICA, 

and especially the United States, we felt like ex- 
claiming — 

" My country, 'tis of thee, 
Sweet land of liberty," 

for no land looked so dear to us. Now, approach- 
ing the Golden Gate, passing, to our right the 
Cliff House, and the rocks covered with many 
seals on the shore of the Northern Pacific, and 
along the cliffs we see a passenger train shooting- 
through the tunnel, etc. , up the great San Fran- 
cisco Bay we go, and at 5 p. m. , Saturday, March 
15, we are safely landed once more on American 
soil, and in less than an hour are comfortably 
settled at the 

PALACE HOTEL, 

said to be the largest and most magnificent hotel 
in the world. The city presents a broken appear- 
ance, owing to the hills; population about 300,000. 
Soon we are on our way to the Golden Gate Park 
and Cliff House, where we saw hundreds of sea 
lions, barking and sunning themselves on the 
rocks; returning, we visited the millionaire 
"bonanza-kings' " residences and Chinatown; one 
thing sure, San Francisco street car cable system 
is perfect, for they climb the steep hills like 
magic. Crossing the bay, Tuesday, March 18, 
on one of the largest ferryboats in the world, to 
Oakland, just opposite; population 34,555. Soon 
we are on a Central Pacific express train, flying 



82 



along the snore of the San Francisco Bay, pass- 
ing to our right fine fertile land, until Port Costa 




is reached, where we cross over to Benicia on the 

Solano, the largest railroad steam ferryboat in 



83 

the world, capable of carrying eighty-four cars 
and two locomotives at one time. On we go, 
passing through the richest fertile land in Cali- 
fornia, arriving at 




A CALIFORNIA GARDEN IN MIDWINTER. 



34 

SACRAMENTO, , 

the capital;' population last census 21,420. Here 
a visit was paid to the Capitol buildings, a mag- 
nificent structure, reminding us of our national 
Capitol, The residences, and especially the cathe- 




dral, were very pretty. California, or the 
" Golden State/' area 158,360 square miles, is the 
second largest State in the Union. It is said to be 



8 5 

one of the richest agricultural tracts in the United 
States, very rich soil and favorable climate, for 
often two crops have been yielded in a single year. 
It is also very picturesque, the Yosemite Valley 
(like Wentforth falls and cliffs, Australia) and 
large trees being among the finest scenery in the 
world. 

Well, space forbids our telling all we saw in 
California, and we hasten on, leaving Sacramento 
Wednesday, March 10, by a vestibule Pullman 
car, and soon are climbing the great Sierra Nevada 
Mountains till the very summit is reached, 7,017 
feet ; here we begin to descend, through numerous 
tunnels and some seventy-five miles of snow sheds. 
Now we are rounding Cape Horn, one of the 
grandest scenes in the world, one look in the awful 
chasm (like Govett's Leap) being sufficient to 
unsettle anyone's nerves. But time flies and on we 
go to Truckee, where we stop for breakfast ; back of 
us are seen the great mountains, where the snow is 
80 feet deep; here, twelve miles south of Lake 
Tahoe, which is exceedingly beautiful. On we go, 
now and then is seen the "poor Indian," who 
like the Maoris are fast becoming extinct. " Old 
Gabriel, an Indian chief, has just gone to his long 
home, at the age of 151 years," so says the San 
Francisco Chronicle of March 17, 1890; nobody 
believed he would ever die, for he had outlived 
all his children, grandchildren and generation. 
At Reno, Nevada, we took the trouble to get off 
the express train and try to talk with a band of 
Indians that were huddled near the platform, 
gazing at the " iron horse." We asked one if he 
could speak English ; he put his finger in his mouth, 
not a smile on his face, as much as to say: " You 
palefaces have robbed us of our land and homes." 
Here, at Reno, one must change for Carson City 
and Virginia City, the great gold and silver 
region. The "sage hen* State of Nevada, area 
110,700 square miles, is rich in minerals, for Com- 
Stock lode is supposed to be the richest silver mine 




CHIEFS OF THE SOUTHERN UTES. (SEE PAGE 85.) 

in the world; but her mountains as we pass along 
look barren and volcanic, and for miles we travel 
over the great Nevada desert, which we are in- 
formed is rich soil when irrigated. At 

HUMBOLDT 

the porter calls out 44 twenty minutes for dinner." 
Near here is the Humboldt range, on which the 
snow continues to hold its icy sway the whole 
year round. This is a thrifty town, as the soil 
has been irrigated from the Humboldt River, 
which, by the way, we have been following for 
some miles. Near by are the Mud, Pyramid, 
Humboldt, Winnemucca and Carson Lakes; to 
our right, as we leave the station, is seen hot sul- 



87 

phur springs. Near here is a mine of pu. 
sulphur. The train speeds on through about the 
same scenery until we find ourselves skirting the 

GREAT SALT LAKE, UTAH, 

the mysterious Dead Sea of America, 126 miles 
long, 45 wide, which we follow for 5 miles until 

OGDEN, UTAH, 

is reached, and we find that we have traveled 833 
miles, being the distance from San Francisco. 
Ogden is a very enterprising and pretty city, but 
we must not tarry. Crossing the Weber River, 
alongside of Salt Lake, to Hot Springs, some 38 
miles, the great Mormon city is reached, and the 
porter calls out 

SALT LAKE CITY, 

where we arrived Thursday, March 20. On leav- 
ing the train we learn that this city is enjoying a 
"boom," and no wonder, for its streets are broad 
and its electric tramway system is all that could 
be desired; population over 30,000. Everything 
indicated prosperity. Strolling up a street we 
pause to view the residences of the late Brigham 
Young and his wives ; a little further on his tomb, 
marked by a plain slab and enclosed by an iron 
fence; outside of this iron railing lie several of 
his wives, the whole enclosed by alow stone fence. 
Returning past the great Mormon printing office 
we enter the grounds of the new temple, which 
cost some $10,000,000. Into the immense Mormon 
Tabernacle we go, the largest building of the kind 
in the world, having a seating capacity of 10,000, 
yet from one end to the other you can hear a pin 
drop. There are no pillars in the centre of the 
building, its vast dome-like roof having no visible 
support. Its organ is said to be one of the largest 
in the world. Utah has an area of 84,900 square 
miles, or nearly as large as England, Scotland, Ire- 
land and Wales combined, and is fertile when irri- 
gated, as rainfall is uncertain. The Mormons de- 



88 

serve great credit in this respect, as they have 
turned a desert into a blooming garden. Leaving 




here Friday, March 21, we turn our backs upon the 
great Mormon city. Winding alongside of the J or* 



89 

dan River tip the Jordan narrow we go, leaving to 
our right huge mountains, near the " Dead Sea." 
Passing Mt. Aspinwall, .11,011 feet high, near 
American Fork, on to Provo, Springville, on our 
express tram goes, and we soon find ourselves 
thundering up the 

SPANISH FORK CANON, 

one of the grandest gorges of the Wasatch 
Mountains. The formation of the rocks here are 




A HOME OF A CLIFF DWELLER, 



go 

volcanic and are certainly very interesting ; the 
Spanish Fork River flows madly through toward 
the Utah Lake below. Soon we reach Soldier 
Summit, elevation 7,465 feet; on we go, passing 
Pleasant Valley Junction, into the deep gorge of 
the Price River, entering the " Gates Ajar" 
or the 

" CASTL.E GATE," 
huge cliffs that look like the gates to an old 
castle, which are the outposts of the Wasatch 
Mountains; a little further on one sees rocks 
resembling the ruins of castles, now other rocks 
look like the walls around Jerusalem; it was a 
grand and curious sight. Here we are at Price, 
Fort Dushane; an Indian reservation is eightv 
miles north of here, and is 135 miles south from 
Fort Bndger, and comprises 4,000,000 acres and 
occupied by about 2,500 Indians. Arriving at 
Green River Station, where we break our journey 
resting for the night at a good hotel in the Utah 
deserts; everything here belongs to the railroad 
company. Early Saturday morning, March 22, we 
leave here, crossing the Green River, through the 
Utah desert, nearly all the land being rich if irri- 
gated; to the left are the curious Book Mountains ; 
in all our travel we have never seen mountains 
like these, looking as it were like great piles of 
books. At Crescent, six miles west of Thompson 
is a mammoth amphitheatre formed by the walls 
of these cliffs, over 3,000 feet high. Now crossing 
the State line we enter Colorado, twisting and 
dodging and whirling and shying we go ; now to 
the right is seen many 

PRAIRIE DOGS, 

sitting upon their little houses looking at us and 
we are informed that near here there is a city of 
them fifteen miles square. Some twenty-five miles 
further on the land has been irrigated, and 
hundreds of cattle are grazing; frequently they 
get upon the track and bring the express often 



91 

nearly to a standstill; here too we saw the first 
genuine " cowboys," with their herds of cattle 
and horses. Soon we arrive at Grand Junction, 
population 1,500, where we dine. This place is 
situated at the junction of Grande and Gunnison 
Rivers. Leaving here we run along the west bank 
of the Gunnison, beside high walls of rock, scant 
room for the train to pass, crossing little creeks, 
beneath overhanging cliffs, until at Delta we leave 
the Gunnison, as it is impossible to follow the 
river further so narrow grows the gorge; so we 
follow the Uncompahgre River valley to Montrose, 
the seat of Montrose Co. Here at Montrose one 
must change cars for Ouray, some thirty miles 
away, among the Rockies, named after Chief 
Ouray. Leaving here we begin to climb the 
Rockies in earnest, through snow sheds scattered 
here and there. Along the line we go till Cerro's 
summit, elevation 7,965 feet, one of the ranges, 
and away we go around sharp curves until 
Cimarron Station and the Black Canon Hotel is 
reached, where we once more meet the Gunnison 
River, following along its banks through the 

BLACK CANON OF THE GUNNISON. 

What shall we say ; well, it was beautiful, impos- 
ing, sublime, yet awful ; along this great gorge of 
canon the railroad lies as it were on a shelf that has 
been blasted out of God's wonderland. Passing 
Sapinero, Kezar, arriving at 

GUNNISON, COLO., 

Saturday evening, March 22, the seat of Gunnison 
Co. The valley of the Gunnison, according to our 
geologists, was once a great lake, now a city is 
built here. Strolling through the streets we met 
the familiar face of an old friend, formerly of New" 
Jersey, who kindly pointed out the places of note ; 
one thing sure, Gunnison has an excellent hotel. 
Leaving Gunnison the following morning we find 
ourselves at the foot hills of th§ 



Q2 

GREAT MARSHALL PASS, 
where we begin the ascent, our train being divided 
into two sections, running up on one side of a great 
canon, curving around its head, out the opposite 




93 

side, around a mountain spur, and still up another, 
climbing continually a grade of near 200 feet to 
a mile, repeating and repeating until the summit 
of the Marshall Pass is reached; elevation, 10,853 
feet. Here the air is very light; frequently in- 
valids expire, others faint, and nose bleed is com- 
mon occurrence; we had the latter experience. 
Here on the north looms Mt. Ouray, elevation 
14,043; beyond Mt. Antero, 14,245; Mt. Harvard, 



um§WM 






"QASTLE GATE." (SEE PAQE 90.) 



94 



including Yale, Princeton, Lincoln, etc. What a 
lofty and magnificent sight ! Of course they were 
covered with snow, and we stopped at the summk 
station under a snow shed. Now down fhe 
mountain we go, around Phantom Curve and 
Horse Shoe Bend, where we frequently see the 
other section of our train going in an onnosite 

^ection, asthoughthey werf gofng to CafC 1? 
while we were on our way to New Jersey. This 
great Pass must be seen to be appreciated At 
last we have reached the valley of the Arkansas 

Srri^ffif^? 6 n ° ted P° nch °Hot Springs on 
our right fifty-five in number, and soon find that 
o?t£ e A at , Sallda ' Colo., situated on the west bank 
or the Arkansas River, an enterprising and well 
laid out city. Now following down the west blnk 
of the Arkansas River we begin to enter the 

GRAND CANON OF THE ARKANSAS. 

t1,«!!?fff train <- fl , ieS al0ng * higher and h, 'g her become 
the cliffs until 3 ,ooo feet above the train. Are you 
looking tor a description? Well, no mortal pen 
has ever described it yet, or ever can. We have 
twice crossed the Italian Alps, but for great rocks 
with high domes, towers and pinnacles, shar,, 
corners and hollow recesses, rocks 3,000 feet high 
standing perpendicular, with projective spurs 
almost locking from opposite sides, and iust 
enough room for the train and river to pass ; imag- 
ine these things and you will have only a faint 
conception of the " Royal Gorge" of th£ Grand 
Canon of the Arkansas. Leavingthe Grand Canon 
we arrive at 

CANON CITY, COLO., 

where the State Penitentiary is situated. Now 
leaving Canon City, at the very gate of the moun- 
tains, on to Florence we go, where oil has been dis 
covered, giving the town a < ' big boom. " Passing 
a number of small stations we arrive at 



95 

FCEBL.O, 

an enterprising Colorado manufacturing city, and 
a greafrailroid centre. Now turning northward 
we soon arrive at 

COLORADO SPRINGS 
mi the afternoon of March 23. It is situated on a 
broad ^plateXand is beautifully laid out, and has 
many fine public buildings and residences and a 
?opuWon P of say 20,000* But we must not leave 
this vicinity without seeing the 

GARDEN OF THE GODS. 

Early Monday morning, March 24, we are on 
our way by carriage, passing through the principal 

street of 

COLORADO CITY, 

population 3,000, being, one , of the .oldest towns 
in Colorado. At one time the State Capital was 
here. On we go to 

MANITOU, 

a summer and winter resort, where are located 
sulphur, iron and soda springs, visiting the Rain- 
bow Falls and 

XTTE PASS, 

which is the old stage route to Leadyille, and 
erhaps Brigham Young passed through here on 
his way to Utah, with his many wives; thence to 
the trail up by the base of 

PIKE'S PEAK 

we go to the Iron Springs. Returning, we enter 
the ''Garden of the Gods," a very curious forma- 
tion of the rock resembling animals, etc. Here is 
he postern gate, as the Grand Gateway is on the 
eastern side Entering at the postern or western 
gate! we have on our lelt the wonderful "Balanced 
Rock - resting its hundreds of tons upon a base 
hardly three feet square: close by are the Mush- 
room? rocks shaped precisely like great mush- 
rooms or toad-stools, while others look like a bear, 



9 6 




OARDEN OF THE GODS; PIKE'S PEAK IN THE DISTANCE. 



coach and horses, with people in the coach ^? 
certainly was a strange sight. It is supposed thll 
these strange formaWwere worsted by the 
ute Indians. Now leavine Coloi-p^rT q„4„ 
passing Palmer Lake and C^astle^t w^a rfve 
at Denver, Col., Monday evening- March Z T ?I 

E^IStST ^ ^ the ' ^pital^f Co o-* 
raao, and the commercial centre. Visiting tht 
principal streets and buildings, we must saftSs 



97 

Prairie City of the West is not on paper, but a 
reality. In 1870 the population of Denver was 
only 4,759; in l &&° 45,629, and to-day she claims 
150,000; further comments on this enterprising- 
city are unnecessary. The Centennial State, or 
Colorado, area 103,925 square miles, is one of the 
richest States in the Union in mineral productions ; 
and here in 1842-44 Gen. John C. Fremont made 
his celebrated trip across the Rocky Mountains. 
This State in 1870 had not one mile of railroad in 
use, to-day railroads are leaving Denver in almost 
every direction. One county in Colorado has 
more coal than the whole State of Pennsylvania. 
Saying good-bye to Denver, Wednesday, March 
26, crossing the South Platte River through the 
prairies we go to 

AKRON, COL., 
population 1,000, where we dine; 112 miles east of 
Denver, in the distance, are the snow-capped 
peaks of the Rocky Mountains. At 2.30 we cross 
the line near Wray, and are now in Nebraska, 
skirting the Republican River, " Shallow Water," 
as the Indians used to call it. Nebraska was 
organized as a territory in 1854, admitted 1867, 
area 76,855 square miles, population 1880, 452,402 ; 
Platte is the principal river ; cattle raising is the 
greatest industry of the State, next to agriculture ; 
soil said to be sixteen to twenty feet deep in 
Saline Co. At Culbertson, Frenchman River 
joins the Republican; now we are at McCook, 
population 3,000, electric lights, etc. ; six years ago 
a barren prairie. Other towns along the line 
have a like history. On we go, and the land looks 
exceedingly fertile, but on the sand bluffs of 
Western Nebraska it is said to be very poor. 
Near Indianola we saw our first prairie fire, away 
off northward; again we see it further off at 
Arapahoe ; arriving at 

OXFORD, NEB., 

at 7.40 p.m., a town of 800, where we break our 
journey at a good hotel, gas, steam heat, etc. 



9§ 

Thursday, March 27, at 8.10 p.m., we steam out of 
Oxford, the next station being Orleans, branch 
here to St. Francis ; at Republican another branch 
goes to Oberlin, Kansas. Still we follow the 
Republican River and its rich, fertile soil; now 
Bloomington a county seat is passed, and soon we 
are at Red Cloud, the home of a Nebraska cattle 
king owning thousands of cattle, hogs, etc., who 
informed us that often in Nebraska corn is used 
for fuel, being cheaper than coal; he supplies 
Leadville and Denver alone with go per cent, of 
the hogs used ; also informed us that cattle, hogs 
and corn were the principal products of Nebraska. 
Now passing Amboy, where a branch runs to 
Hastings and Omaha, soon we reach Superior, a 
railroad centre ; now leaving Chester we dodge in 
and out of Kansas four times, so close are we 
to the line ; arriving at Waymore at 2 p.m. w r e dine. 
Soon we are at Humboldt and the country looks 
fine, good, healthy trees are seen, indicating of 
course good, rich, deep soil. Now arriving at 
Falls City, Nebraska, where we change cars for a 
SHORT TRIP THROUGH KANSAS. 

Leaving Rulo, we soon cross the State line and 
enter Kansas, where we follow the 
MISSOURI RIVER. 

Near here one sees three States, Missouri, Nebraska 
and Kansas, any one large enough for a kingdom 
or an empire. 

'•WHITE CLOUD," 

calls out the porter, and it's in Kansas. The 

"GARDEN OF THE WEST," KANSAS, 

or " Smoky Water," as the Indians used to call it, 
has an area of 82,080 square miles. It is the geo- 
graphical centre of the United States, exclusive of 
Alaska, and was organized as a territor / in 1854, 
admitted 1861, Topeka being the capital. It is 
said Kansas has more corn now than railroads 
have cars to haul. Well, we crossed the Nemaha 
River, arriving at 



09 

ATCHISON, KANSAS, 

Thursday afternoon, March 27 ; population, 25,000; 
a rather pretty city. Strolling up Commercial 
Street, then by car over Fifth and out Tenth 
Streets, etc., things look prosperous, but life is 
too short to describe all the railroad junctions, 
pretty little villages, towns and cities one passes, 
so we hasten on to the lt Chicago of the West," 
Kansas City, and leaving Atchison early Friday 
morning, March 28, we crossed the great Missouri 
River into 

MISSOURI, 
the Penn. of the West, area 69,415 square miles, 
or nearly the combined area of the whole New 
England States; organized as a territory in 1812, 
admitted in 1821; Missouri River frontage being 
nearly 500 miles; now passing Sugar and Bean 
Lakes, where we saw thousands of wild ducks and 
a forest of squirrels ; what a paradise for sport. 
Now following the east banks of the Missouri, 
now a distant view of Leavenworth, Kansas, fly- 
ing past Grand Island, etc. Crossing the great 
river we hear the porter shout 

KANSAS CITY, MO., 

being 654 miles from Denver, or 2,259 miles from 
San Francisco, where we arrive Friday morning, 
March 28, at 10. 50 a. m. Up Independence Avenue 
we go all the way, then . over the elevated line to 
Chelsea Park, Kansas City, Kansas, population 
50,000, for there are two Kansas Citys. Return- 
ing now to the Missouri Kansas City, we stroll 
through her principal streets, then over the 
Twelfth Street line, passing the Exhibition Build- 
ing, etc., traveling about the city some thirty 
miles by her splendid street car system. Well, 
Kansas City reminds one of San Francisco, Cal., 
as one sees her street cars mount the hills. Kansas 
City has perhaps 200,000 human beings; it is cer- 
tainly a very enterprising city. Here empties the 
Kansas River into the Missouri. Leaving here 



100 

Saturday, March 29, at 8.25 a. m. , again crossing 
the great river, we often .see the familiar faces of 
the 

" COLORED MAN" 
or negro. Asking them a question they never fail 
to give you a civil answer ; there are about 7,000,- 
000 in the United States. The race is not becom- 
ing extinct like the Maoris, but are increasing ; 
"way down on the Swanee River," or in the 
Southern States they are to be found everywhere. 
Passing Liberty, Clay County, the early home of 
the famous "James boys," the notorious highway- 
men, on we go to Cameron, Laclede, Bucklin, 
Macon, Monroe, Palmyra Junction, where one 
must change to go to St. Louis via this line, the 
principal city and commercial centre of Missouri, 
but as we have been there before, we hasten on 
to the shores of the great 

MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 

Now steaming up the river is seen an old-time 
Mississippi steamboat, with her paddle wheel 
behind; soon we are crossing the river on a fine 
steel bridge ; yonder lies 

QUINCY, IIX., 

reminding one of a distant view of Joppa, Pales- 
tine being similar, for both are built on a bluff. 
Here, too, we have a fine view of the city, and 
the new City Hall and Court. House; population, 
40,000; here we spend half an hour and dine. 
The area of Illinois is 56,650 square miles, and is 
called Prairie or Sucker State; now through 
Golden, Galesburg, Buda, Mendota, Aurora, on 
goes our express train of eleven cars, and before 
one is hardly aware of it the porter shouts 

CHICAGO, 

being 488 miles from Kansas City, where we 
arrived March 30, 1890. In 1801 Chicago was a 
swamp, 181 1 a small military post, 1831 a village 
of twelve houses, and in 1841 an incorporated city 



TOi 



with 5,752 inhabitants; to-day, 1890. she claims 
with her suburbs 1,200,000; we believe no city in 
the world has such a record ; it's one of the 




102' 

greatest railroad centres in existence, the land 
surrounding for hundreds of miles is exceedingly 
fertile, and rainfall abundant. October 8, 1871, a 
disastrous fire swept the city, but almost immedi- 
ately she arose like the " phoenix " from her ashes, 
building finer buildings than ever before. It is 
said Mrs. O'Leary's fractious cow caused the fire, 
by kicking over a kerosene lamp. To-day her 
street car system is perfect ; streets broad, many 
shaded; her buildings simply magnificent; well 
may it be called the Garden City of the West. 

WORLD'S FAIR COST AND MANAGEMENT. 

Before the gates of the World's Columbian Ex- 
position shall have been opened to visitors $18,- 
750,000 will have been expended upon it, inde- 
pendently of the millions expended in the con- 
struction of State buildings and the installation 
of State exhibits. 

The cost of this Exposition will be three times 
as much as any previous Exposition in the history 
of the world. It occupies about three times as 
many acres (638), and has about twice as much 
space under roof as the greatest of former Ex- 
positions. 

Chicago, you know, boasts of having the largest 
population for its age of any city on earth ; but 

WHAT AFTER 3090 A. D. ? 

For according to the last 1890 census, the earth 
is now peopled by not less than 1,468,000,000 of % 
human beings, and her utmost capacity is 6,000,- 
000,000. The population is now increasing at the 
rate of about 8 per cent, each decade. At this 
rate the limit of the number of people which our 
globe can comfortably support will be reached in 
2090, or in about 198 years from the present time. 
This calculation is based on the fact that the 
habitable land of the globe amounts to only about 
46,000,000 square miles, and only a little over one- 
half of this, 28,000,000 square miles, is capable of 
sustaining human life were the inhabitants forced 



to depend on their immediate surroundings for 
food and raiment. The best statisticians tell us 
that this last 28,000,000 square miles of land is 
capable of maintaining 207 persons to the square 
mile, the whole being based on the fact that the 
soil of Japan now sustains 264 to the square mile 
and that of China 295. On and after 2090 twenty- 
acre farms in the Mississippi and Missouri valleys 
will be at a premium. 

We could devote pages to this city, but the 
above facts speak for themselves, and after spend- 
ing six days visiting the principal sights, we leave 
April 4. Away we go along the banks of the great 
Michigan Lake ; on our right is seen the old exhi- 
bition building and the great Chicago Auditorium, 
and hundreds of pretty residences and shady 
streets, that extend westward as far as the eye 
can reach, frequently whizzing past suburban pas- 
senger trains going to and from the great city ; 
now passing Jackson Park, to our right, one of 
the principal parks, soon we are at • 

MILLERS, IND., 

and we find we have left Illinois, crossing the State 
line, and are in Indiana or Hoosier State ; area 
89»35o square miles, Indianapolis being the capital 
and home of President Harrison. Indiana coal 
fields cover an area of 6,500 square miles, popu- 
lation 1880, 1,978,301, land rich and rainfall 
abundant. At Walker ton we pause to give the 
4 'iron horse" a drink, now passing through thick 
forests, thence out into a fine farming region, 
beside Syracuse Lake to Garrett at 2 p. m., being 
144 miles from Chicago, where we dine. Now 
flying past Hicksville we find we have crossed 
the line and are in 

OHIO, 

or * 'Buckeye State;" area, 41,060 square miles. 
Cincinnati, the "Queen City" of the West, being 
the metropolis, and Columbus the capital, ranks 
first in agricultural implements, and has 247,189 



104 

farms. On we go, crossing the Mawnee River, 
arriving at Defiance at 3.15 p. m. ; here one sees 
many trees and stump land, one-story frame 
houses, and well laid out streets. Crossing an- 
other river, passing through an oil belt at North 
Baltimore, where one sees a natural gas well, 
until Newark is reached, where one must change 
cars for Columbus and Cincinnati ; twenty minutes 
for supper, cries the porter. On to Zanesville, 
Barnesville and Bellaire we go. where the country 
begins to look hilly. At Bellaire we see blazing 
blast furnaces, and the sight is magnificent, as 
we cross the 

OHIO RIVER 

on a fine steel bridge ; arriving at Benwood the 
porter shouts change cars for Wheeling and Pitts- 
burgh. Again we find we have crossed the State 
line and are in 

WEST VIRGINIA, 

or "Panhandle State;" area 34,780 square miles, 
Charleston being the capital and Wheeling the 
metropolis; here we find 39,778 farms, and iron 
ore yielding fifty to eighty per cent, of pure metal. 
Now following the banks of the Ohio, soon we 
turn to our left to Newburg, Deer Park, where 
ex-President Cleveland went to spend his "honey- 
moon." Over the 

ALIEGHENY MOUNTAINS 

we go to the summit, 2,800 feet high, now around 
sharp curves, soon we reach the beautiful banks 
of the north 

POTOMAC RIVER, 

arriving at Piedmont, W. Va. Crossing the river 
near here we are now on Maryland soil, but soon 
the train takes a turn as if not satisfied with 
Maryland, and again we are in West Virginia, 
these two States being separated by the Potomac ; 
flying along the foot hills of the Allegheny, arriv-* 

itfg at 



io$ 

CUMBERLAND, Ml>., 

at about 8 a. m., where we breakfast; now still 
following the banks and valley of the beautiful 
river, all along here now are pointed out to us 
scenes of skirmishing of the late war, for 

"Tramp, tramp, the boys come marching." 
On we go to Martinsburg, Shenandoah Junction to 

HARPER'S FERRY, W. VA., 

stopping directly in front of 

"JOHN BROWN'S FORT," 

a little one-story stone building ; beyond lies the 
town, and on the very top of a hill is seen a grave- 
yard, where we are told the remains of "John 
Brown's body lies mouldering in the ground, as 
his soul goes marching on." 
Now over a bridge we go through a gap of the 

BLUE MOUNTAIN, 

still following near the Potomac, and are 

"ON TO WASHINGTON," 

where we arrived Saturday, April 5, 12 noon. 
All the way from the summit of the Allegheny to 
Washington the sky was and still is cloudless; 
winding our way to the Capitol, to the Library 
corridor, where we get a magnificent view of the 
city, thence to the Senate Chamber to visit some 
of our friends. Now up Pennsylvania Avenue to 
the White House ; passing to our left is seen the 
great Washington monument, the highest in the 
world ; thence out Massachusetts Avenue to greet 
other friends, and after visiting the principal 
sights, away to the station we go and soon find 
ourselves in 

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND, 

as the train speeds along at the rate of a mile a 
minute. Up Howard Street to Lombard, Sharp, 
German, Baltimore and Charles Streets, to Mt. 
Vernon Place, (Here one sees Walters' famous 



io6 



picture gallery, perhaps one of the finest private 
collections m the world; near by here is the house 
of Robert Garrett, the millionaire railroad kinjj 
whose house resembles Vanderbilt's in New York.' 
Here also is a fine monument to the "Father of 




THE CAPITOL, WASHINGTON, D. C. 

Our Country," but time flies, and we must wend 
our way back to the vestibuled express train, and 
soon find ourselves flying along the western shore 
of Maryland at the rate of a mile a minute. One 
ot the thirteen original States is Maryland and 



107 

named in honor of Maria, wife of Charles II., 
King of England; area 12,210 square miles. At 
Havre de Grace we cross the 

SUSQUEHANNA RIVER. 

To our left is Port Deposit, and soon we find that 
we have arrived at 

NEWARK, DEI,., 

another of the original thirteen States ; area 2,050 
square miles. Now to Wilmington and on to 
Chester, where we find we have again crossed the 
line into 

PENNSYLVANIA, 

or " Keystone State," named in honor of William 
Penn; area 45,215 square miles. On we go to 

PHILADELPHIA, 

and soon are comfortably situated in a first-class 
hotel, where we have arrived Saturday, April 5, 
at 7.30 p. m. ; population is said to exceed one 
million, and covering more ground than any other 
one city, as the people as a rule live in their own 
homes. We are told 15,000 new houses are to be 
built this year. Here, in 1876, President U. S. 
Grant turned the wheel and set in motion one of 
the greatest " Centennial Exhibitions " known up 
to that time. Here, in 1776, was signed the 
Declaration of Independence. Directly opposite, 
over the Delaware River, lies Camden, New Jer- 
sey, and beyond, eastward some thirty miles, is 
the shore of the Atlantic Ocean and Atlantic City ; 
further south Cape May; beautiful summer re- 
sorts, where Philadelphia people go to spend 
their vacation. Wednesday, April 9, at one 
o'clock, we leave the great 

QUAKER CITY, 

under the Girard Avenue bridge we go; to our 
left and right is seen Fairmount Park ; as we 
run along the shores of the Schuylkill River, in 
the distance one catches a glimpse of some of the 



io8 

old Centennial buildings, along side of Laurel 
Hill, to Wayne Junction, on, on we go and soon 
find that we are 

" CROSSING THE DELAWARE," 

not as Gen. Washington did near here, over one 
hundred years ago, but on a magnificent steel 
bridge, on to Trenton Junction, Bound Brook, 
Plainfield, Elizabeth, to our left now is seen the 
distant smoke from the busy manufacturing city 
of Newark, New Jersey. Soon we are crossing- 
Newark Bay, on a bridge some three miles long, 
to Bergen Point; now to our right is seen the 
Bartholdi Statue of Liberty, and a distant view 
of New York City, Brooklyn and Brooklyn Bridge, 
before us lies the great New York Harbor and 
Bay. 

"JERSEY CITY, 

all change," cries the porter, for here one must 
take the ferry going to New York. New Jersey, 
or " Jersey Blue," is named in honor of Sir George 
Carteret, at one time Governor of the Island of 
Jersey, England; it is one of the thirteen original 
States, area 7,815 square miles, extreme length 
157 miles, width thirty-seven to seventy, lying 
between two of the largest cities in either North 
or South America, Newark being the metropolis 
while Trenton is the capital. Now crossing the 
beautiful Hudson River, the River Rhine of 
America, on the ferryboat Communipaw, arriving 
at New York City Wednesday evening, April 9, 
1890; a city, including its suburbs, of some 3,000,- 
000 human beings, for what else are Brooklyn, 
Jersey City, Newark, etc., but suburbs, counting 
as London, England, does, including her many 
suburbs. New York, the Empire or Excelsior 
State, is one of the original thirteen; area 49,170 
square miles, New York City being the metropolis 
and Albany the capital. To describe this great 
city and suburbs would fill a volume, so we wi|l 
pot. attempt it, 



IOQ 




MADISON SQUARE GARDEN, NEW YORK CITY. 



no 




STATUE OF LIBERTY, BROOKLYN BRIDGE IN THE DISTANCE. 

Down the New York Bay we get a glimpse of 
the Statue of Liberty, a gift from France. Over 
the Hoboken Ferry we go to Hoboken, Paterson, 



m 

Boonton, Dover, Hackettstown ; whizzing through 
Port Murray, to our left is seen Mt. Lebanon and 
the 



OLD HOMESTEAD, 

our birth place ; soon we have arrived at Washing- 
ton, Warren County, New Jersey, United States 
of America. Down Railroad Avenue we go, up 
Broad Street to the 

BE ATT Y BUILDING, 




<The Boatty BuiMing.) 



having completed our tour of the world in 166 
days, leaving here October 25, 1889, and arriving 
home April 9, 1890; being 71 miles from New 
York or one thousand one hundred and eleven 
miles from Chicago via Harper s Ferry, or thirty- 
five thousand nine hundred and seventy-four 
miles since June, 1889 (see preface). Having now 
visited many nations, seen some wonderful and 



112 

Very cufioils sights, especially in Palestine (Holy 
Land) and Egypt, looked upon the faces of many 
human beings of different tongues and religious 
beliefs; of the over fourteen (14) hundred millions 
of human beings now living upon the face of the 
earth at the present time, (1890 census;, we have 
learned a lesson, that there are other great nations 
as, well as the United States of America. 



THE END. 




$500,000 

WORTH OF 

ORGANS 

AND 

PIANOS 

at great bargains. 

I Write for Catalogue A 
-. and particular s % J^t* 
' Address or call on 
DANIEL F. BEATTY, Washington, New Jersey* 




VISITORS ARE ALWAYS WELCOME, 



Address or Call Upon 



DANIEL F. BEATTY, Washington, New Jersey, 

UNITED STATES OF AMEBIC 



V 3 

REGARDLESS OF AL1 COST. 

Many persons find it extremely difficult to make home 
attractive to their children. The reason is, because they 
have never tried the refining influence of a piano or 
organ. Home can and should be made happy, regard- 
less of all cost; as the early home influences of each 
child form the foundation of his or her future career in 
life. By all means secure at once one of JBeatty's 
Celebrated Organs or Pianofortes. Remember, 
satisfaction absolutely guaranteed. 

Our plan of business is to combine the highest excel- 
lence in quality with economy in price. Every instru- 
ment is fully warranted, and satisfaction absolutely as- 
sured. While we do not pretend to compete in prices 
with what are called cheap instruments, we do mean to 
give the best instruments that can be made, and at the 
lowest prices that will yield us a fair profit for our labor. 

First quality of goods, low prices, quick sales, lively 
returns and prompt attention to anyone business will 
ensure success in a well-directed enterprise. 




"I r CENTS will buy Beatty's Piano and Organ Instruct- 
/ or, containing the elements of music with easy 
and progressive exercises to perfect the player in 
the art of music (either Piano or Organ), to which is 
added over 60 Waltzes, Polkas, Marches, Galops, Operatic 
Melodies, Dances, etc., by Daniel F. Beatty; one of the 
best works of its kind ever introduced, and should be 
in the hands of every Piano and Organ player. Sent 
post paid to any part of the United States and Canada, 
for only Seventy-five Cents, the price having been re- 
duced to introduce it everywhere. Address, 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, WASHINGTON, New JERSEY, 
United States of America. 



IT.f 

PIANOS IN EXCHANGE FORiYOUR ORGANS. 

^~ PLEASE READ THIS OFFER. 




Dear SIR: Have you an Organ that you desire to 
exchange as part payment towards the purchase of a new 
Upright Piano ? If so we will be glad to make the 
exchange. We offer you our No. 34,667, $1,000.00 "Imperial" 
Golden Upright Pianoforte, 7% octaves, three golden 
strings to each note, three foot pedals, continuous hinges, 
in ebonized, Fancy Burled Walnut, Mahogany, or any 
other wood desired, including a handsome cover and 
piano stool, with music book, for ONI^Y $275.00. 

(Local dealers will charge about $450.00 for such a mag- 
nificent piano.) Now we'll»accept your old organ in part 
payment, allowing you a reasonable price for it in part 
payment for this piano. Please tell us about how, and in 
whatcondition your organ is in. State the make and tell 
us about what you want for it and we will write you by 
next mail, telling you just what we will do. No trouble 
for us to answer your letter and questions. Always glad 
to hear from you. Please send us the above information 
and we will write you immediately, sending you at the 
same time a large circular fully describing this magnifi- 
ce nt pi anoforte. 

W^^ We saw an American Piano in Naples, Italy, that 
$8^^F was made to order and cost the owner $2,000.00. If 
ttie above-described Piano is not worth two like it, we will 
donate $50,000.00 to any charitable institution that may 
be named. Address or call upon 

DANIEL F, BEATTY. WASHINGTON, NEW JERSEY, 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



H5 
A FEW NEWSPAPER NOTICES. 

«' Hon. Daniel F. Beatty, the great Organ and 
Piano manufacturer, is building and shipping more 
Organs and Pianos than ever. In 1S70 Mr. Beatty 
left home a penniless plow boy, and by his indom- 
itable will he has worked his way up so as to sell, 
so far, nearly 100, 000 of Beatty s Organs and Pianos 
since 1870. : Nothing seems to dishearten him ; 
obstacles laid in his way that would have wrecked 
any ordinary man forever, he turns to an advertise- 
ment and comes out of it brighter than ever. His 
instruments, as is well known, are very popular, 
and are to be found in all parts of the world. We 
are informed that during the next ten years he 
intends to sell 200, 000 more of his make ; that means 
a business of $20,000,000 if we average them at 
$100 each. It is already the largest business of its 
kind in existence." — Sun. 

" The most enterprising Piano and Organ man- 
ufacturer in existence. Leaving home in 1870 a 
penniless plow boy, now he has already nearly 
100, coo of his celebrated Pianos and Organs in use. 
They are to be found on all parts of the earth." — 
World. 

44 So great is the demand for Beatty's celebrated 
Pianos and Organs, it is said that he has been 
compelled to work nights by 320 Edison electric 
lights to fill his orders/'— Press. 

SETHIS ELEQdNT 

PARLOR PIPE ORGAN, 

Catalogue Price, $500 00, 

ONLY $100.00, 

STOOL AND BOOK INCLUDED. 
pW= Illustrated Catalogue Mailed FREE. Address 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, WASHINGTON, NEW JERSEY. 




iXm OLD HOMESTEAD ^ 



^^Xwsrra 




PUBLISHERS 

SHOULD FORWARD US THEIR ADDRESS IF THEY WISH TO OBTAIN A 

PIANO OR ORGAN IN EXCHANGE FOR ADVERTISING. 

ADDRESS OR CALL UPON 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, WASHINGTON, NEW JERSEY. 

BEJOTT - 

$500,000 

WORTH OF 

ORGANS 

AND 

PIANOS 

at great bargains 
Write for Catalogue " 
= a»d particulars, » 
F Addressorcallon 
DANIEL F. BEATTY, Washington, flew Jersey. 

VISITORS ARE ALWAYS WELCOME,^ ) 

ADDRESS OR CALL UPON 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, Washington, New Jersey, United States of America. 



ft 






